CHEW ON THIS
Restaurant Report
CINDY ELLEN RUSSELL / CRUSSELL@STARBULLETIN.COM
Fred DeAngelo, formerly of Palomino Euro Bistro, is chef of Tiki's Grill & Bar in the remodeled Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel. Tiki's will officially open to the public on Saturday.
At Waikiki's newest restaurant, down on the zoo end of the Kalakaua strip, some frowning, angry-looking tikis will watch you eat, but the one at the front door is smiling and seems very happy to be here. Tiki’s will serve nostalgia along
with Pacific Rim fare
By Betty Shimabukuro
betty@starbulletin.comAs does executive chef Fred DeAngelo, who made the trip across town from Palomino Euro Bistro in order to open Tiki's Grill & Bar as part owner.
Tiki's, in the remodeled Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel, opened quietly last week to invited guests and hungry people who happened to wander by.
It opens officially this week with a series of fund-raising events for the Aloha United Way, Shriner's Children's Transportation Fund and the Waikiki Community Center. The grand opening to the public is Saturday.
As is plainly evident by the decor (not to mention the name), Tiki's is built on the South Pacific tiki-tacky theme of the '50s and '60s that has been undergoing a resurgence. The ambiance is fish nets and faux lava rock, with lots of carved masks, war clubs and such.
The menu includes lots of grilled fish, some pasta dishes, ribs, chops and steaks. Familiar, casual foods that DeAngelo has given a touch of Pacific Rim flair -- for example his Chef's Signature King Salmon, sugar-glazed and lightly marinated with ginger and cilantro, served with a lemon-grass beurre blanc, mashed Okinawan sweet potatoes and Asian slaw.
Entrée prices run from $10.95 for panko-crusted fish and chips to $24.95 for lobster tail. A Hawaiian plate will be offered on Fridays for $15.95.
"We're hoping to give people something that they can identify with," DeAngelo says, "and yet have it be a surprise when they get it ... through quality or presentation or the finish of the dinner with the dessert"
Dessert, now that's a key component. DeAngelo hired a pastry chef before even designating a sous chef to be his right hand in the kitchen, believing baked goods to be important to the restaurant's identity.
Ronald Viloria will produce all of Tiki's breads, not to mention stylish signature desserts, such as Lilikoi Cheesecake, served in a cylinder of white chocolate, topped with a slice of oven-dried pineapple.
DeAngelo is hoping locals will embrace Tikis, yet he is well aware that he is firmly planted in tourist-ville and must walk that line, balancing familiarity with innovation. "We are in a hotel. We are going to have people who don't live here and aren't going to understand the components in a certain dish and might shy away from it."
But that doesn't mean dumbing down the food, he says.
"The average diner is a very educated diner now. There's a lot of people who know food."
Hours at Tiki's are 10:30 a.m. to midnight daily. Call 923-8454. The fund-raising event for the Waikiki Community Center is 7 to 10 p.m. Wednesday; $20 suggested donation. Call 923-1802. The other two fund-raising events are by invitation only.
Good deeds
The National Restaurant Association has recognized two Hawaii restaurants for their good works in the community. Receiving the Restaurant Neighbor Awards were Ryan's Grill in Ward Centre and the T S Restaurants.
Ryan's raised $40,000 through its Hearts of Hawaii event last year to raise money for five local families who lost loved ones on Sept. 11. More than 20 restaurants participated in the block party that Ryan's general manager, Tanya Phillips, coordinated.
The T S Restaurants -- Leilani's on the Beach, Kimo's and Hula Grill on Maui, Duke's Kauai and Keoki's Paradise on Kauai, and Duke's Waikiki -- were recognized for their Educator Recognition Program, which provides dinners and awards to local teachers.
Hawaii chef Roy Yamaguchi's Atlanta restaurant was also recognized for its ohana fund, set up for staff members in need, as well as other community efforts.
Special events
Art, Wine, Cheese & Friday: Canoes at the Renaissance Ilikai Waikiki Hotel has launched a monthly pau hana event, a free wine-and-cheese sampling that incorporates a stroll through the Hogue Art Gallery. The next event is 6 to 8 p.m. Friday, continuing on the fourth Friday of each month. Call 944-6310.
Power Luncheon: KSSK's Michael W. Perry and Larry Price host a panel discussion on issues facing Hawaii, 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Wednesday at Ruth's Chris Steak House. Speakers include Rex Johnson, executive director of the Hawaii Tourism Authority; Herman Frazier, University of Hawaii director of athletics; Police Chief Lee Donahue and Randy Schoch, Ruth's Chris owner. The show will be taped for airing on KSSK. The Steakhouse Salad lunch costs $25. Call 599-3860.
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