GEORGE F. LEE / GLEE@STARBULLETIN.COM Paul Soquena, left, and Kukini Suwa downed their Beerfest selections -- Coopers Best Extra Stout for Soquena and a Grolsch for Suwa -- at Ryan's Grill on Monday. The two said this was their third year attending the event.

‘Ryan’s Beerfest’ is a tasty trip

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By Jason Genegabus
jason@starbulletin.com

TWO WEEKS ago I got a chance to visit Denmark, England and Germany. And last Sunday I took a trip to France, Greece, Ireland and Holland before swinging back through England and Germany for a second time. How was all this global jet-setting possible for someone on a journalist's salary who doesn't even hold a passport? It's easy -- I went to Ryan's Grill at Ward Centre and took part in this month's "Ryan's Beerfest."

Now in its 10th year, the summer event continues to interest both casual drinkers and beer aficionados alike with expanded beer offerings. More than 20 countries are represented behind the bar, including distant places such as Belgium, China, Czechoslovakia and Thailand. While some beers are readily available at a corner liquor store (i.e. Japan's Asahi, Jamaica's Red Stripe, Mexico's Corona), others would be hard to find even if at a specialty stores. Prices range from $4 for a bottle of the Philippines' San Miguel to an astonishing $17.50 for a taste of Belgium's Dunen Abbey Ale-Dubbel.

My international experience started innocently enough with a choice from the bar's selection of American beers. I had never heard of Alaska Amber before and the smooth "Alt Style Beer" didn't disappoint with its light, crisp taste. While eating dinner later, however, I learned an important lesson about Beerfest -- trust the menu. Some of the entrées are paired with beers off the list, such as a delicious grilled salmon that was recommended with the Alaskan Amber I had started with. I ended up kicking myself for not following the menu and drinking it with the salmon.

The next beer served as a warning that, just like other products, some imported goods aren't always what they seem. I thought I was going to drink an exotic European beer when I ordered a bottle of Denmark's Elephant Malt. What I got instead tasted like watered-down Bud Light, and the label's fine print showed it was actually malt liquor brewed and bottled in Toronto. Almost as bad was Holland's Oranjeboom -- while I thought I was going to get beer that tasted like oranges, the bottle I was served looked and tasted like a Heineken with a different label.

Not giving up, I searched the menu for a selection that would taste better. An English beer, Melbourn Bros.' Strawberry, seemed a good choice. Tasting more like a hard strawberry cider, it went down fast, leaving me a few short minutes later wondering if a single 12-ounce serving was really worth $9. At least the bottle looked cool -- it reminded me of the ones Smuckers pancake syrup used to come in.

As would be expected, the German beers didn't disappoint. The Spaten Optimator -- 17.5 ounces of malt liquor with a 7.2 percent alcohol content by volume -- should've been named "Terminator." Arriving with its own oversized glass, this stuff tasted better and had way more kick than the Olde English and Mickey's you can buy for three bucks at 7-Eleven. And after a bottle of Erdinger Dunkel (another malt liquor served in an oversized glass) and Celebrator Doppelbock I was thoroughly convinced of the Germans' brewing capabilities.

RYAN'S BEERFEST Place: Ryan's Grill at Ward Centre When: Through Aug. 31 Call: 591-9132 ENTERTAINMENT SCHEDULE: Today: Nueva Vida Monday: Koa'uka Next Wednesday: B.E.T. Aug. 19: Bobby Thursby & Night Train Aug. 21: Ka'ala Boys Aug. 26: Epic Session Aug. 28: Sean Na'auao, O-Shen

While Deutchland takes my vote for the most potent beer, don't forget offerings from England or Ireland. Boddington's Pub Ale, just like the world-famous Guinness, is served from a 16-ounce can that uses a "Draughtflow" system to keep the alcohol under pressure until consumption. Light and sweet, the ale goes down easy and doesn't have a lot of fizz that could bloat your stomach.

I also tried a pair of England's Samuel Smith Brewery offerings: the Oatmeal Stout and Organically Produced Lager. Both were full-bodied beers that would go well with a hamburger or some fish and chips, and the Organically Produced Lager had a unique taste that reminded me of some home-brewed beer I had tried during college.

Before you journey to Ward Centre for a sudsy experience of your own, here are a few suggestions to make the most of the event. Let your server know Beerfest is your reason for visiting. My server didn't give me a list of beers available; I had to ask for one after worrying that maybe Beerfest had ended early this year.

Second, ask questions. My servers weren't beer drinkers, so they weren't able to provide a lot of information about my picks. A good idea would be for Ryan's to print a more detailed description of each beer so customers could do more than make a blind choice off a list.

Finally, don't be afraid to complain. If a beer is downright horrible, say so. Even though I was pretty oiled up by the time I tried Greece's Athenian beer, its extreme bitterness was too much for me to handle. Fortunately, my server was understanding and took the bottle back without charging me for it.

The Beerfest continues through the month at Ryan's Grill, and the restaurant offers live entertainment Mondays, 8:30 to 11:30 p.m., and Wednesdays, 9 p.m. to midnight. If you decide to take part in this around-the-world beer tasting be sure to arrive with an open mind and a designated driver. Bottoms up!

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