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Key Ingredient

ELEANOR NAKAMA-MITSUNAGA



Ingredient of the week

Key ingredient: summer squash

The most recognizable summer squash variety is the always-available zucchini, but several other varieties merit attention and are now in peak season. They all have a similar mild flavor, but come in a quirky array of shapes and sizes.

The basics: Squash are generally divided into the seasonal categories of summer and winter squash. All come from the Cucurbitaceae family, which includes cucumbers and melons. Also considered gourds (fleshy vegetables protected by a rind), squash has played a major role in the American diet, originating with the Native Americans.

The basic difference between the seasonal varieties lies in their outer rind. Winter squash have thick, hard, outer shells with tough seeds, while summer squash have thin skin and soft, edible seeds. Summer squash varieties include zucchini, yellow straightneck and crookneck, and scalloped varieties, which include patty pan and sunburst squashes that resemble spinning tops.

They also vary in color from dark green to mint green and bright yellow to orange. Summer squashes are about 95 percent water and contain vitamins A and C. They are very low in calories.

Selecting: Look for squash that are small to medium in size, 6 to 8 inches long for oblong squash and 3 to 4 inches in diameter for round, scalloped varieties. Although they can grow quite large, the smaller fruit tends to be sweeter and more tender. Squash are also available in delicate baby sizes.

They should be firm and somewhat heavy for their size. Watch for shriveled or soft fruit, bruising and nicks in the skin.

Squash blossoms are a rare treat this time of year and should pop up in specialty markets from time to time.

Storing: Place summer squash in a plastic bag and store in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Use: Wash well and trim ends. The skin and seeds do not need to be removed. Squash work well, raw or cooked, in a dizzying array of savory and sweet dishes.

Make sure not to overcook the squash, however, as they will end up watery and mushy. Use various types in combination in salads, soups, stir-fries or simply grilled along with bell peppers and eggplant for a perfect summer side dish. Stuffed squash, deep-fried squash and the classic zucchini bread are other popular preparations.

Where to buy: Zucchini is available year-round. Other varieties are available now through the end of summer. The general price range is $1.99 to $2.99 a pound, with sale prices running as low as 69 cents a pound for zucchini or as high as $12 a pound for patty pans.

Food Stuffs: Morsels



Eleanor Nakama-Mitsunaga is
a free-lance food writer. Contact her
online through features@starbulletin.com



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