By The Glass
JAY KAM
Italy is the No. 1 exporter of wine to the United States by volume. Most consumers are aware of Pinot Grigio and Chianti, which comprise the bulk of Italian wine exported. But Italy is so much more. With great vintages from 1996 to 2001, a ton of quality Italian wines are available. Tuscany produces some
of Italy’s best wineWhile every region in Italy has a different personality, perhaps the personality of Tuscany is the one most people romanticize about. Tuscany has the culture and history of Florence. It has some spectacular countryside -- both inland and on the coast. It has some of the best cuisine in Italy and it has some of the best wines. Chianti immediately comes to mind, but there are others, such as Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile de Montepulciano.
A little known wine is the baby brother of Brunello di Montalcino -- Rosso di Montalcino. Rosso is lighter, fruitier and more accessible than the collectable and ageworthy Brunello. It is often made from grapes of younger vines or from less prestigious vineyards.
In off-vintages, Rosso di Montalcino can be a good bargain, if you know what to look for, because much of the juice that would be used to make Brunello is declassified to Rosso. In great years, Rosso can really be a bargain, with high quality and reasonable prices.
The latter is the case with the currently released vintage of 1999. While most Italian wine connoisseurs know that 1997 was one of the ultimate years in Tuscany, 1999 has not yet received the same level of infatuation. It really should be the next object of Italian wine lovers' attention.
The 1999 Rosso di Montalcinos are consistently good across the board. I have not tasted an inferior one yet. What makes them alluring is the price tag ($20 to $25) and the style of wine. In general, Rosso di Montalcinos have cherry fruit qualities, often with smoke and tobacco flavors that add complexity. Italian wines always seems to go so well with food -- possibly their main attribute. This style is conducive to the barbecued and smoked foods that are favorites during the summer.
So instead of opening up a rambunctious Zinfandel or a heavy Syrah/Shiraz, try a more medium-bodied 1999 Rosso, for example: Ciacci (24.99), Ucceliera ($24.99), Lisini ($25.99) or Carparzo ($18.99).
This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
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