Key Ingredient

ELEANOR NAKAMA-MITSUNAGA

Key ingredient: figs

Mention figs to many Americans and fig bars are generally the first thing that comes to mind. Yet that gooey, sweet paste we're accustomed to is far removed from the uniquely sweet flavor of fresh figs. Figs are in season, and although they can be hard to find, there is no better time to try them fresh.

The basics: Figs have been around since biblical times and are thought to be among the oldest fruits. The leaves of the fig tree in the Garden of Eden provided the first clothing to Adam and Eve and the fruit itself was always thought to be sacred. Fresh figs are essential to the Mediterranean table where they are enjoyed with cheese as a first course or added to salads and meat dishes such as lamb.

Franciscan monks brought figs to California in the late 1700s and the dark-skinned Mission fig flourished. California has since been the major grower of fresh figs, but because the fruit is highly perishable, much of the crop is dried and preserved.

There are hundreds of varieties, with the most popular being the Mission; the green-skinned Calimyrna or Smyrna; and the small, thick-skinned, greenish-yellow Kadota. All figs are round to pear-like in shape with soft, dramatic looking flesh that may range from white to pink. Both skin and the infinite tiny seeds are also edible. Figs are a good source of iron and calcium.

Selecting: Figs should be plump with no signs of bruising or browning. They are shipped ripe, so they should be soft to the touch, but not overly so.

Storing: Fresh figs should be consumed immediately after purchase, as they tend to overripen and ferment quickly. They can be stored in the refrigerator for a couple of days.

Use: Rinse figs and cut fruit lengthwise in half or in quarters and add to salads or enjoy them as an accompaniment to cheeses, nuts and smoked meats. Fresh figs can also be brushed with olive oil and grilled or braised with lamb, chicken or salmon along with garlic and fresh herbs. For dessert, fresh figs are ideal poached and served with ice cream or added to fruit tarts.

Where to buy: Fresh figs are available from June through August, but in our markets they'll only be available for the next month or so, and even then rarely. R. Field Wine & Food Co. should have a good supply available at $8 to $9 a pound.

Food Stuffs: Morsels

Eleanor Nakama-Mitsunaga is
a free-lance food writer. Contact her
online through features@starbulletin.com