By The Glass
LYLE FUJIOKA
A few years ago I was introduced to a wine called Amano, made from the Primitivo grape. Primitivo, from Italy's southern region of Puglia, has long been recognized as having a clonal link to California's Zinfandel. I quickly realized that the link between these two grapes could finally be demonstrated to the American palate. Italy’s Zinfandel-like wines
develop a cult followingThe explanation became self-evident when I was informed that Amano was the project of former California winemaker Mark Shannon. Mark understood the potential of investing in Puglia, where vineyard development costs were far more manageable than ever-escalating California prices.
How could the identical Zin grapes that go into a $5 bottle of sweet pink stuff emerge in their true red form at $25 a bottle? Amazing what fads can do the price of any product!
Back to Amano Primitivo, vinified California style. Within two weeks of introducing this wine, we had a ravenous cult following. Cases were flying out the store and it got to a point where limits had to be imposed on the number of bottles a customer could purchase. Husbands, wives, brothers, sisters, cousins were all coming in for their allocations.
The best quote: "I even converted a diehard beer drinker to wine with Amano."
Mark Shannon's vision of vinifying southern Italian varietals into Zinfandel-like wines for the American palate has been a resounding success. High-quality wines at tremendously low prices? That's amore!
Le Corte Negroamaro 2000 ($15.95): What's Aussie Chris Ringland doing in Salento? Taking the winemaking experience that earned him a 100-point Parker rating for his Three Rivers Shiraz and focusing it on Negroamaro! This is no simple fruit bomb, for although the wine displays gorgeous fruit, it's the complexity, intensity and power that moves the wine up to the heavyweight category. Deep berry, leather and barbecue-like aromas abound. You'll be captivated by the ripe raspberry and dark cherry flavors accented with vanilla, citrus, tobacco -- the finish clings with chalky tannins. Good on ya, Chris!
Morgante Nero d'Avola IGT 2000 ($9.95): Nero d'Avola -- the next California Zin killer? You betcha! This Sicilian gem is brimming with rich fruit aromas and flavors that will have Zinfandel lovers swooning with delight! Intoxicating perfume of blueberry, raspberry, butterscotch, vanilla and cherry liqueur forewarn the taster of the decadence ahead. On the palate, Morgante shimmers with dense black plum, blueberry, raspberry and dark cherry vanilla, balanced by starfruit-like acidity and ultra-sweet ripe tannins.
Feudi Monaci Salice Salentino 2000 ($7.95): Have you ever noticed that some wines taste better the next day? The fastidious wine lover will always go to great lengths to try and preserve freshness and flavor by using any one of several useful techniques. Well, we inadvertently left a bottle out overnight and guess what? The spicy, ripe, black fruit aromas and flavors reminiscent of a Zinfandel on the first day evolved into rich, deep raisiny Amarone-like flavors the next.
Lyle Fujioka owns Fujioka's Wine Merchants. This column is written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
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