Hawaii’s Back yard
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi
VERONICA CARMONA / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN
Seasoned cowpokes Uncle Jimmy Duvauchelle, right, his daughter Deanna Keliihoomalu and grandson R.J. Duvauchelle say they always have fun at the Paniolo Round-Up.
In the 1991 Hollywood blockbuster "City Slickers," Billy Crystal plays a New York advertising executive who joins a group of greenhorns on a cattle drive from New Mexico to Colorado. For him, the two-week adventure also winds up being an exhilarating, inspiring journey to self-discovery. Guests mount up and take
part in the Paniolo Round-Up
at the Sheraton MolokaiJimmy Duvauchelle has seen people undergo a similar transformation in just a few hours. "Uncle Jimmy," as he's affectionately known, is in charge of the Sheraton Molokai Lodge & Beach Village's equestrian activities, one of the most popular of which is the Paniolo Round-Up. During this two-hour adventure, participants mount horses to get a taste of what real cowboys do on a typical day, including herding, sorting and driving cattle into pens. They're divided into two teams, each vying to complete a task in the shortest time. The competition is fierce -- and a whole lot of fun.
"They step into a totally new environment when they come here," Uncle Jimmy says. "We've had people who've never ridden a horse before, and that's OK. All they need to do is learn the basics, and they have a great time."
SITTING ASTRIDE L.A. in the Sheraton Molokai's rodeo arena, I get an idea of what it's like to ride the Ferrari of cow ponies. The handsome chestnut moves smoothly and quickly to the lightest touch of my legs. He's alert, powerful and willing to heed my every cue -- qualities I've come to appreciate as a student of dressage.
VERONICA CARMONA / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN
Paniolo and greenhorns team up to drive a heard of cattle into the arena for the rodeo games.
"This horse is amazing!" I exult to Raymond James "R.J." Duvauchelle, the young paniolo by my side. "He's so responsive!"
"L.A. is the best because he's owned by the best," R.J. answers, nodding in the direction of Uncle Jimmy, his grandfather, who is overseeing the start of team sorting. For this activity, each rider is required to cut one cow from the herd of 15 as fast as they can. Although everyone in our group of six has at least some riding experience, we're definitely greenhorns in the rodeo ring.
Uncle Jimmy's daughter, Deanna Keliihoomalu, is also there to provide tips and encouragement, but the ornery cows aren't cooperative. Move too suddenly and they'll spook. Get in the wrong position, and more than one cow will leave the herd, resulting in demerits for the team. Sorting cattle demands concentration and precision from both horse and rider.
When my turn comes, Uncle Jimmy advises me to aim for a cow standing on the side, a bit apart from the rest of the herd. "Ride up to it slowly," he says. "Easy, easy. That's right. Head for the front of it, and it should turn from you and break away."
I'm thinking it'd be easier to move in from behind, but who am I to question a paniolo with 36 years of experience? L.A. and I approach our target, which is watching us warily, and it indeed spins and runs off by itself, exactly as Uncle Jimmy had predicted. Mission accomplished! I'm ecstatic!
Uncle Jimmy smiles broadly as the rest of the group cheers my success; he's seen this happen many times before during the Paniolo Round-Up. "When guests start working with the cattle, it becomes a game to them, and they take their minds off falling," he says. "They learn to sit naturally on the horse. Pretty soon, they're riding really well, and they're surprised at what they can do."
HONING RIDING SKILLS is just one reward of the roundup; participants also learn about the importance of teamwork.
"The more they work together, the more they accomplish," notes Uncle Jimmy. "They depend on each other to get the job done. They also build relationships. The roundup is a great way to make new friends and to more closely bond with the ones who are with you. Finally, it's wonderful to be able to work with the animals. Our guests develop a respect and appreciation for them as well."
Place: Rodeo arena at the Sheraton Molokai Lodge & Beach Village; check in at the resort's Cultural Center by 12:45 p.m. in order to catch the 1 p.m. shuttle to the rodeo arena. Paniolo Round-Up
Time: 1:30 to 3:30 p.m. daily (a minimum of four persons is required for the activity to take place)
Cost: $80 for guests, $105 for nonguests. Minimum age: 10
Minimum height: 4 feet 10 inches
Call: 660-2710 (ask for the Cultural Center)
Special: Through Dec. 20, the Sheraton Molokai Lodge & Beach Village is offering two deals for kamaaina. The Molokai Kamaaina Getaway Package at Kaupoa Beach Village includes breakfast for two daily and accommodations in a two-bedroom garden-view bungalow (sleeps four). Cost is $169 per night. Show your local ID, and you can book a stay in a deluxe category room at the Lodge for $179 per night. Sheraton Molokai guests also receive an average discount of up to 30 percent on activities, including horseback riding, hiking, ocean kayaking and sporting clays. Call 800-782-9488 and ask for the Kamaaina Special.
Web site: www.sheraton.com/hawaii
The cowpokes in the roundup also benefit from the experience.
Uncle Jimmy loves "talking story" about Molokai's paniolo lifestyle with visitors from all over the world.
"Hawaii has lots of nice hotels, but the Sheraton Molokai is special as far as vacation destinations go," he asserts.
"You can surf, kayak and do other water sports at just about every hotel in the state. But not every hotel offers an authentic ranching experience like we do."
Once, he recalls, four elderly Japanese ladies signed up for the roundup. "The youngest was 72 years old; the oldest was 80-something and walked with a cane. Some of the cowboys were nervous about them getting on horses, but they did just fine. And do you know what? The next day, they went on the Molokai Mule Ride!"
That, declares Uncle Jimmy, is one of the miracles of being in the country. "There's no noise, no traffic, no crowds here," he says. "Sometimes you need that peace and fresh air; everybody needs time off to relax, regenerate and recuperate, physically as well as mentally. It helps plenty."
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based free-lance writer
and Society of American Travel Writers award winner.
