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Books for cooks

BARBARA BURKE



art

"A Fistful of Lentils" By Jennifer Abadi (Harvard Common Press, 2002, hardcover, $24.95)

StarStar1/2



Syrian-Jewish cookbook
full of exotic joy

I'll admit it. I almost didn't review this cookbook. Its title and cover just didn't grab me. I like lentils just fine, but I'm not overly excited by the "family album" genre of cookbooks. So, it took a few weeks before I decided to give it a look.

Well, that old adage (I won't bother to repeat it here) holds true. Once inside the book, I found one interesting recipe after another. The two-color layout is simple, yet appealing and easy to read.

I learned why the author believes that Syrian-Jewish cooking is the best-kept secret of Middle Eastern cuisine. And, prompted by the events of this past year, I was intrigued to discover why Abadi's mother could be described as an "Arab Jew."

The flavors of Syrian-Jewish cooking are exotic, the spices mellow rather than hot, and the dishes rich and zesty, according to Abadi. Most recipes can be integrated easily with foods of other cultures, lending variety to different kinds of fare. Some of the preparations are quick and easy, while others demand more time and patience. Many are so unusual that they are bound to wow guests.

The Syrian pantry relies on staple ingredients that are commonly found in local food stores. These include pita bread, phyllo, bulgur, garbanzo beans, lentils, matzoh, rice, semolina, eggplant, grape leaves, dried apricots, tomatoes, almonds, pistachios, pine nuts and a variety of herbs and spices.

What makes this Syrian grilled cheese sandwich different is the unusual addition of mint leaves. Try it for a summer lunch. String or mozzarella cheese are suitable substitutes for mild Syrian white cheese.

Syrian Grilled Cheese Sandwich with Mint

1 white or whole wheat pita bread
2 to 3 ounces mild Syrian white cheese
Leaves from 2 to 3 sprigs mint
Salt to taste (optional)
2 teaspoons olive oil

Cut about an inch off one end of the pita bread to open its pocket. Stuff the pocket with a layer of cheese, then a layer of mint. Sprinkle with salt (if the cheese isn't already salted).

Heat 1 teaspoon of the olive oil in a small skillet until very hot. Place the pita sandwich on top of the oil. Press down on the sandwich, and pan-fry with a plate on top to keep it flat. Reduce the heat to medium and fry 3 to 4 minutes.

When the sandwich has browned on the bottom, remove it, add the remaining 1 teaspoon olive oil to the skillet, flip the sandwich over and return the plate to the top to keep it flat. Pan-fry until golden brown on the bottom. Serve hot. Makes 1 sandwich.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (using whole-wheat pita, 2 ounces string cheese and no additional salt): 400 calories, 20 g total fat, 7 g sat fat, 33 mg cholesterol, 610 mg sodium, 20 g protein, 37 g carbohydrate.


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Barbara Burke is a Hawaii-Pacific University instructor who teaches and writes about food and nutrition. Contact her at the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or e-mail her at: features@starbulletin.com



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