By The Glass
JAY KAM
I just returned from an intense and extensive trip to France. After tasting nearly 1,000 wines in both Burgundy and Bordeaux, I found the highlight of the trip to be the sweet wines from Bordeaux, Sauternes. Some sweet thoughts
on SauternesSauternes is known for producing some of the finest sweet wines in the world. Made with Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion (and occasionally Muscadel), and affected by the noble rot, botrytis, which helps concentrate the wines, Sauternes has a long and impressive reputation. Royalty from all over Europe have served Sauternes for centuries. Thomas Jefferson was known to have had an affinity for them as well. My wife, who has expensive taste, also is a devout Sauternes admirer.
Sauternes and foie gras is considered one of the ultimate gourmet pairings. Sauternes is also at ease with desserts or can be a dessert by itself. My sister made mango cheesecake squares for Mother's Day that were perfect with our bottle of Sauternes.
While in France, I tasted barrel samples of the 2001 Sauternes, a superlative vintage. The best balance fruit, sugar and acid -- important to make sure the wine is not cloying. The wines are also viscous, dense, full-bodied and rich. While many classic Sauternes feature apricot and peach flavors, the 2001s predominately show pineapple, honey and clover flavors.
I tasted some 2001 Sauternes side by side with two other highly rated vintages, 1997 and 1989, and the 2001s blew them away. I turned to a colleague and said, "We may be tasting history here." Wine critics are universally touting the 2001 vintage with eye-popping scores.
If you even remotely like sweet wines, it would be wise to invest in this landmark 2001 vintage. Due to a slump in customer interest in recent years, prices are incredibly affordable. They are the bargains of Bordeaux right now. Most 2001 Sauternes are in the $20 to $40 range for a full bottle (750 ml). The bad news is that these wines will not be released for at least another year, although you can order them now from fine-wine retailers.
If you wanted to try a Sauternes tonight, it is unlikely you would find a good selection in restaurants or on retail shelves, largely because consumers have been inexplicably apathetic about this wine. In the last few months, however, demand for Sauternes has started to increase. I suspect Sauternes will grow trendier.
Pre-sales have been brisk for 2001 Sauternes worldwide. If you are interested in ordering "futures" (pay now to ensure you will get them upon release at the lowest prices), here are a few examples available:
2001 Chateau Doisy Vedrines ($30): Based on past vintages I've tasted, '97 and '99, this chateau is on the rise. Full throttle, aggressive, incredible balance and richness, it exhibits pineapple flavors with a touch of vanilla and spice. An astounding accomplishment.
2001 Chateau Lamothe Guignard ($23): A relative unknown, this may be one of the best bargains among Sauternes. Very thick and viscous, it has honey and clove flavors with harmonious sweetness and a long finish that you don't associate with a wine of this price.
2001 Chateau D'Arche ($25): Very viscous, it almost has the mouth texture of cream. Well-integrated pineapple and honey flavors with a long, long finish. Very impressive.
Jay Kam is president of Vintage Wine Cellar.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
Write to features@starbulletin.com
