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[ SUNDAY TRAVEL ]


Canoe festival celebrates
isles’ native cultures

Master builders create a vessel
as part of the 2-week Lahaina event


By Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi
Special to the Star-Bulletin

A thousand years before Christopher Columbus left Spain, courageous Polynesian pioneers explored and settled most of the Pacific, traveling in canoes they had hand-carved from the trunks of native trees. With a resourcefulness and craftsmanship that astounds modern scholars, they used tightly braided sennit to lash together the hull, outrigger and mast of their canoes. Strips of pandanus leaves were plaited into sails.

Life for these plucky adventurers revolved around these simple, sturdy vessels. The double-hulled waa kaulua were used for long voyages and trade. Massive canoes that could each transport more than 100 warriors were maintained in royal fleets, while small, more maneuverable single canoes, or waa kaukahi, were launched for fishing trips, coastal excursions and recreation.

Each canoe was given a name and treated with the respect of a living person. It was a privilege and sign of prestige to own a canoe, and the construction of each was marked by both solemn religious ceremonies and joyous festivities.


'In Celebration of Canoes'

Where: Lahaina, Maui
When: Today through May 25
Admission: Free, except for the cultural workshops as noted in calendar. Register at the Lahaina Visitor Center on the ground floor of the Old Lahaina Courthouse or by calling the numbers below.
Call: 808-667-9193 on Maui, or 888-310-1117 from the other islands
Web site: www.visitlahaina.com


It was with this same reverence and exuberance that the LahainaTown Action Committee, a nonprofit community organization that promotes Lahaina, introduced "In Celebration of Canoes" in 1998. The festival -- which Maui County Mayor Kimo Apana has called "Maui's signature cultural heritage event" -- brings together master canoe makers from Hawaii, Tahiti, Tonga, New Zealand and the Cook Islands. This year, for the first time, they will be joined by counterparts from the Makah First Nation tribes of Washington state's Olympic Peninsula and Vancouver Island.

Festival spectators will be able to watch these experts build a canoe from scratch -- from shaping the raw log to etching the final intricate decorations. The event culminates on Memorial Day weekend with a parade of finished canoes and their dramatic sunset sea launch. Also planned are workshops on Hawaiian uliuli making, Cook Island block carving and printing, and Tongan tapa making; a Polynesian arts and crafts fair; and a concert.

The celebration was the brainchild of Jerry Kunitomo, owner of BJ's Chicago Pizzeria in Lahaina, and Theo Morrison, executive director of the LahainaTown Action Committee and the event's coordinator. Recalls Morrison, "We were looking for an opportunity to promote an important aspect of Hawaiian culture that related to Lahaina.

"Without the canoe and the development of way-finding, Polynesia would never have been settled."

Those incredible journeys across the vast Pacific forged a strong brotherhood among the Polynesian peoples. "Throughout our oral history there has been a recurring theme that speaks of voyaging," says Moana Philip Swan, a New Zealand native who coordinated this year's canoe carvers. "No matter where you are -- be it Rarotonga, Aotearoa (New Zealand) or Hawaii -- you find similarities in the traditions, ceremonies and stories."

From a one-night street festival, "In Celebration of Canoes" has grown into an activity-filled event spanning two weeks.

"This event is critical as the cultural component of Lahaina is re-established," says Kunitomo. "It has set a path that establishes cultural tourism as part of the town's progress."

Participants benefit from the festival's goal of fostering cultural awareness, adds promotions coordinator Karee Carlucci. "Kids are wowed by the excitement of seeing a vessel emerge from a tree trunk before their eyes. Visiting parents can feel good about taking their children on a learning holiday, and the kids can go back to school and share their experiences and newfound knowledge with teachers and classmates. Adults of all ages are amazed by the direct interaction with cultural traditions they receive from this event."


CALENDAR OF EVENTS

"In Celebration of Canoes" activities will take place in Lahaina's Banyan Tree Park unless otherwise stated. Events are free unless noted. Here is the calendar:

Today

>> 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. -- Rough carving of canoes at Kamehameha Iki Park; through Tuesday.

>> Continuing for two weeks -- Masako Cordray photo exhibit of past festivals, in the Lahaina Courthouse (upstairs), and a display of canoe models made by fourth-graders from King Kamehameha III Elementary School, Lahaina Courthouse. In addition, there will be canoe carving, surfboard shaping and pahu making on the grounds from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesday through May 24, and a Cultural Arts Festival from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday through May 25.

Thursday

>> 10 a.m. to noon -- Hawaiian uliuli making; repeats Saturday; fee is $30 plus $3 handling.

>> 4:30 to 8:30 p.m. -- Canoe rides by torch light at the Front Street seawall by Cheeseburger in Paradise; repeats Friday and Saturday.

Saturday

>> 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. -- Lifeguard competition at Front Street seawall.

May 20

>> 2 to 5 p.m. -- Cook Island block carving and printing on fabric; repeats May 22; costs $25 plus $3 handling fee.

May 23

>> 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. -- Tongan tapa making at the Wharf Cinema Center; repeats May 24 and 25; fee is $25 plus $3 handling.

>>11 a.m. to 2 p.m. -- Polynesian crafts and Hawaiian entertainment at the Wharf Cinema Center; repeats May 24.

May 24

>> 6 p.m. -- Parade of Canoes along Front Street.

>> 7 to 10 p.m. -- Festival of Canoes and Hawaiian music concert, Lahaina Library lawn.

May 25

>> 2 to 4 p.m. -- Hula show at the Wharf Cinema Center.

>> 4 to 10 p.m. -- Ho'olaule'a with display of canoes, ancient Hawaiian games, crafts, food booths, live music and hula performances, at Kamehameha Iki Park.

>> 5:30 p.m. -- Ceremony followed by launching of the canoes, Kamehameha Iki Park.

The Maori tradition of facial tattoos is accurately represented by Iwi Henare at the New Zealand canoe.



Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based free-lance writer.



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