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Key Ingredient

ELEANOR NAKAMA-MITSUNAGA



Ingredient of the week
TEN SPEED PRESS
Grains of black rice, as shown in Ken Hom's "Asian Ingredients," clearly contrast with white.



Key ingredient: black rice

Move over, white rice. Make room for a dizzying array of other varieties. Never have we seen more types of rice available in Hawaii. From long, glutinous and brown rice to exotic red and black varieties, all have their own special qualities.

Of these, black rice seems to be popping up most in restaurants and markets these days. It is a dramatic-looking rice with an equally unique taste.

The basics: Black rice is grown throughout Asia. A number of varieties are grown, but the one most commonly available here is the Thai variety. It is considered a glutinous rice, although the sticky quality is substantially less than your typical mochi rice.

Like brown rice, black rice is unmilled and unpolished, meaning the outer husk of the rice has been removed, but the bran is left on the grain. This results in a chewy texture similar to wild rice. It's also a bit nutty in flavor. Beneath the black rice bran, the rice itself is white like all other rice varieties. When cooked, the black bran breaks down, turning the rice a beautiful purple hue.

Selecting: Black rice is generally available in 2- to 5-pound bags. It is labeled black rice or Thai black rice and is easily identified by its color.

Storing: Keep black rice as you would any other rice, in a cool, dry area. The rice will keep for quite some time. Cooked rice doesn't hold up well in the refrigerator, however. It will dry out and harden, so try to cook only what will be consumed immediately.

Use: Traditionally, Thai black rice is used only in sweet treats mixed with coconut milk and palm sugar. Outside of Southeast Asia, however, it is being used creatively as an exotic starch to accompany a wide variety of dishes.

Because it is unmilled, it takes a bit longer to cook and needs a larger proportion of water. Use a 2-to-1 ratio of water to rice. Black rice does not need to be rinsed like white rice. Ideally, it should be soaked in water for several hours, or even overnight, before cooking.

Use a rice cooker, or steam the rice over the stove for 35 to 45 minutes, depending on how much rice is being cooked. In Thailand the rice is often mixed half-and-half with white long-grain glutinous rice for a softer texture.

Where to buy: Black rice can be found at 99 Ranch and other Asian markets, priced at $2 to $4 a bag.

Food Stuffs: Morsels



Eleanor Nakama-Mitsunaga is
a free-lance food writer. Contact her
online through features@starbulletin.com



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