Books for cooks

BARBARA BURKE

Pepin serves
19th cookbook

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To Jacques Pepin, cooking is a celebration, no matter how simple or elaborate the meal. What is important is the sharing of food with family and friends. Start with fresh ingredients, some knowledge of cooking, plenty of care and love, and -- Voila! -- you're in for a real treat.

In this, his 19th cookbook, Pepin offers many favorite family recipes. There are quick foods, like soups, omelets, and salads. Then, there are more time-consuming party and weekend foods, such as a soufflé of mussels and basil or profiteroles with pastry cream and chocolate sauce.

Either way, Pepin takes the mystery out of French cooking, which he does not consider strictly "French," at all. Pepin likes to refer to the recipes in this book as dishes with French origins that frequently have accents from other cuisines. So, don't be surprised to find a shiitake mushroom, ginger or a jalapeno pepper in an ingredient list.

One aspect of the cookbook that sets it apart from others is the use of 243 full-color photos and artwork demonstrating proper cooking techniques as well as certain "tours de main," or tricks of the trade, that are key to cooking success.

Complete menus and wine pairings for celebrating holidays, anniversaries, graduations, bridal showers, and more, also are included.

Below, Pepin teaches how to prepare a flat omelet, which is cooked on both sides. Hint: It is one of the easiest French omelets to make.

Flat Omelet Farmer-Style

2 slices lean bacon, cut into 3/4-inch pieces
1 tablespoon virgin olive oil
1 small to medium potato (4 to 6 ounces), washed but not peeled, and cut into 12 thin slices
3 large eggs

Dash freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons minced chives

Place the bacon pieces in a skillet or omelet pan, and cook them for 2 to 3 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until they are nicely browned.

Add the oil and potato slices, and sauté for another 3 to 4 minutes, until the potatoes are nicely browned.

In a bowl, beat the eggs with a dash of pepper and the chives, and pour them into the pan.

Drag the tines of a fork between the curds to expose the runny eggs to the cooking surface. Cook the omelet to your liking.

After the omelet is set, it can be turned over in the pan and cooked on the underside. If it doesn't release readily from the pan, pour a little oil along the edge of the omelet, and shake the pan; the oil should flow underneath the omelet and dislodge it so that it can be flipped.

If you'd rather not turn the omelet, place it under a hot broiler and cook for 1 to 2 minutes to set the top, then slide the omelet onto a plate. Serve immediately.

Yield: 1 omelet, serves 2

Approximate nutritional information per serving: 380 calories, 28 g total fat, 8 g sat fat, 330 mg cholesterol, 270 mg sodium, 13 g protein, 19 g carbohydrate.

Rating Scale: Best in its class / Highly recommended / Recommended / Not recommended

Barbara Burke is a Hawaii-Pacific University instructor who teaches and writes about food and nutrition. Contact her at the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or e-mail her at: features@starbulletin.com