The Weekly Eater
|
Waterfront Cafe
a restaurant in search
of an identityI was recently asked what kind of restaurant I would open in another state the interrogator and I both recognize as lacking in the culinary department.
After mulling it over, weighing the conservative nature of the city, price points and current successes, we decided comfort food was the way to go.
Later that night, though, I started second guessing myself, wondering, "Does the world really need another place selling roast chicken, meat loaf and mashed potatoes?"
I imagine in these days of unfilled restaurants, there's a growing population of chefs and restaurateurs asking similar questions; trouble is, we were talking hypothetically while they already have restaurants up and running.
Waterfront Cafe & Cabaret opened about a month ago and still has the feel of an establishment in search of a niche. Staffers indicate the menu is in flux and are open to suggestions and recommendations. It's good for businesses to listen to their clientele, but general themes and directions should be determined before the public has formed a first impression. In this case, it should have been asked in advance: "Does Aloha Tower Marketplace need another restaurant offering All-American-meets-Pacific Rim fare?"
Waterfront seems to be covering territory already claimed in parts by Gordon Biersch, Chai's Island Bistro and Big Island Steak House. The difference is in the clubby evening ambience, D.I.Y. paint job and youthful staff that caters to a 35-and-under sensibility. This is fine at lunchtime and after 10 p.m. when DJs take over.
The problem is at dinnertime, when entrees hit $18 and above. Given the current economic climate, few people want to spend that kind of money on a place with no pedigree. (For reference, please see the hugely successful Dave & Busters where entrees are typically $12 and rarely top $15. Truthfully, you're not going to save a lot of money there either, but perception is everything.)
It's possible to ease into the menu through no-fail appetizers such as baked and bacon-topped clams casino ($10.50) and herb-and-pepper seared ahi ($10.95), which comes with a small salad of Asian slaw topped by a sweetened lemon-cilantro aioli.
Staffers raved about the angels on horseback ($9.95), oysters wrapped in bacon and broiled, and served over a mushroom sauté. I liked the mushrooms better than the angels, which were thrown by the untamed bacon. The squish just gets lost in the crunch, and there was too much competition between the two strong flavors.
Lobster, crab and artichoke dip ($9.95), like other examples around town, was skimpy on the seafood, but I did like the chewy, stringy strands of onion, which made me feel like I was eating vegetables, negating the effects of the Parmesan also being consumed.
Maintain a saintly diet and you'll also save some bucks. A Greek salad of romaine, cucumbers, onion and tomatoes is topped with Kalamata olives and feta and sprinkled with a light vinaigrette, running $6.95, the same price as the spinach salad.
The menu continues with a few basic pasta, seafood, steak and chicken dishes. Tender, well-marbled Black Angus Beef is steak of choice. The char-broiled rib eye steak ($23.95) is delicious even without the brandy garlic-shallot butter. I imagine the same is true of the certified Black Angus steak ($27.95) served with foie gras and a Bordeaux wine demi glace.
Shrimp scampi ($17.95) and grilled scallops ($19.95) seemed to be a little too generic for the price, so my companion opted for one of the dinner specials being tested for addition to the menu. These included more generic offerings such as grilled ahi ($19.95) and salmon with tarragon sauce ($19.95). So we went with the staff's suggestion of stuffed jumbo Kauai shrimp ($21.95). Which brings me to another restaurant truth: Never trust the tastes of an inexperienced waiter. They like everything. They're also very nice and chummy, but I consider hovering about as vexing as being a no-show sort of waiter.
Here, the combination of Dungeness and blue crab, onion, mushroom and shallot filling was quite mushy and bland. Adding to the overall mush was a mash of Okinawan sweet potatoes. I love the potato's sweetness, but the shrimp was already a sweet mash; they should have varied the flavors and textures. It might have been better if the potato had simply been baked and sliced.
Dessert was ginger crème brûlée ($4.95), its surface scorched.
Aloha Tower Marketplace / 585-8488 Waterfront Café & Cabaret
Hours: Lunch 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner 5 to 10 p.m. daily
Food 1/2
Service Ambience Value
Cost: Dinner for two about $30 to $60 without drinks
See some past restaurant reviews in the
section online. Click the logo to go!
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com
excellent; very good, exceeds expectations; average; below average.
