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More akule. Less seabass. A kinder, gentler seafood-eating public. The Audubon Society and the Maui-based Pacific Whale Foundation would like you to think about fish in a different way. Rather than taste, availability and affordability, think instead about the way these swimming critters live and reproduce, and the manner in which they are caught.
An environmental group ranks
seafoods according to the health of
their populations, but for the buyer,
it's not that easy being greenBy Betty Shimabukuro
bshimabukuro@starbulletin.comThink green.
The two organizations have come up with a Seafood Wallet Card that ranks popular seafood in order of "sustainability," or the health of the individual fisheries. In the green zone are species that are abundant and fished in ways that don't endanger other animals such as turtles and seabirds. The Audubon Society also considers the fishing industries in this zone to be well-managed to avoid depleting the population.
In the red zone are fish from the flip side of the equation. At the very bottom is Chilean seabass, a very popular fish because of its mild flavor and moist texture.
Seabass (real name: the less-appetizing toothfish) is caught in Antarctic waters. Because the fishing area is so remote and demand is so high, "illegal fishing is rampant," said Carrie Brownstein, policy associate with the Audubon Society. The fish have a long lifespan, which means they can't replenish themselves when overfished. The population is in danger of collapse, Brownstein said. "Some conservationists think we shouldn't be eating them at all."
The Audubon Society has produced these wallet cards for different regions of the country, customizing them to fit local tastes. The Pacific Whale Foundation funded the printing of 25,000 copies and will handle distribution.
In Hawaii's green zone are opelu, akule and farm-raised tilapia. Mahimahi, aku, ono and ahi all make the top of the list as well -- but only if pole- or troll-caught, not longline.
Frankly, it's not easy being green. Brownstein stopped by Tamashiro Market last week during her visit to Hawaii to introduce the wallet card. She found a fairly good supply of opelu and akule, but otherwise, the seafood display case was full of fish caught by longline.
Owner Guy Tamashiro said there'd been just one troll-caught ahi at the fish auction that morning. "That's basically what Oahu caught yesterday -- one piece. That won't supply Oahu's needs."
During certain times of year, certain fish will range closer to shore where they can be caught by trolling vessels, Tamashiro said. Otherwise, "the boats come in and you might have two or three in a week; the next week, nothing. And the next week, nothing."
Longline fishing is a commercial reality, and its environmental downside is subject to debate -- just think back on the controversy when a federal judge issued restrictions on Hawaii longline fishing.
The Audubon Society considers longlining problematic because of "bycatch," the chance that other sea creatures may be captured when thousands of hooks are trailed from fishing boats. Longline-caught marlin and tunas are ranked in a mid-range yellow zone on the wallet card -- their populations are stable; it's the fishing method that raises concerns.
Paul Dalzell, senior scientist with the Western Pacific Regional Fishery Management Council, said he doesn't have many problems with the Audubon rankings, although "they are probably too heavy-handed on longline fishing."
He said the number of birds, turtles and sharks caught by Hawaii longliners has been dramatically reduced, especially since swordfishing was banned about a year ago. Swordfish are caught at shallow depths, where bycatch is a problem; tuna and bottomfish such as snapper are caught at greater depth.
"In the Pacific, longline fisheries have done a fair amount to reduce bycatch and probably will do more," Dalzell said.
Brownstein said the seafood rankings are meant to evolve and she'd like to see more fish move into the green zone.
The value of the wallet card is in raising awareness, she said, getting people to ask questions and think about what they're buying.
"The point is to recognize that there are differences among seafood choices," she said. "Some are abundant, some are better-managed. Some have less impact on the environment."
The Seafood Wallet Card is available free through the Pacific Whale Foundation, 300 Maalaea Road, Suite 211, Wailuku, Maui 96793. Or call (800) 942-5311.
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