Big waves sneak up
on Waimea Bay crowds

Lulls between sets lure some
swimmers into dangerous surf

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By Rod Antone
rantone@starbulletin.com

North Shore lifeguards rescued seven people, one who had to be airlifted by helicopter to get medical attention, because of what they called "very deceptive" ocean conditions yesterday at Waimea Bay.

Lifeguards said swimmers were lulled into seemingly calm water at Waimea only to be pounded by surprise surf with wave fronts estimated at 16 to 24 feet.

"There were 20-minute lulls between each set," said Ocean Safety Lt. John Hoogsteden. "It would be completely flat, then the surf would come in and clean everybody out."

Lifeguards said one of the victims, a 46-year-old man from New Jersey, suffered possible spine and neck injuries while attempting to bodysurf at Waimea. Lifeguards said the victim was flown by Army medevac helicopter to Queen's Medical Center.

"He was driven into the bottom," said Hoogsteden. "The surf didn't show itself until it was too late."

Jim Howe, operations chief of the city's Ocean Safety Division, said usually when there is a big swell, there is a "constant wave surge action going on that keeps people from going in the water."

According to meteorologists from the National Weather Service, the difference yesterday was due to the distance between Hawaii and the storm that generated the surf.

"As a rule of thumb, the further away the storm which generates the surf, the longer the time between sets," said lead forecaster Roy Matsuda. "The storm that generated surf for Oahu's northwest side is 1,100 miles away."

Though Matsuda expects surf to decline by this afternoon, lifeguards are still worried about dealing with a busy holiday weekend at the beach as the weather warms. Howe said they want to warn people about the potentially dangerous conditions and to keep a close eye on the ocean.

"We'd just like to advise everybody to be real careful," he said.