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By The Glass

Mark Shishido

Wednesday, January 30, 2002


Blend Champagne with
romance on Valentine’s Day

On Valentine's Day, the lofty anticipation of a romantic evening is just the beginning. The night is usually initiated with red roses and chocolates, followed with a decadent meal feasting on foie gras and lobster. Hopefully, dinner will be highlighted with witty conversation and, last by not least, a bottle of Champagne. Why Champagne?

I suspect because of Champagne's long-standing association with celebration and romance ... and rightly so. Nothing's more romantic than a glass of bubbly.

But an attribute of Champagne that is often overlooked is how incredibly versatile it is with food. The effervescence (bubbles) and lemony edge (crisp acidity) clear and freshen the palate between bites, the way a chilled beer interacts with a juicy, fully loaded cheeseburger or a seared mahimahi sandwich. Champagne is able to accomplish the same interaction, just on a much higher, more sophisticated level. So why not have a bottle with dinner?

Aside from all that romantic, mushy stuff, we should keep in mind that Champagne is produced from a blend of white and red grapes. The very best Champagne houses combine the delicate, feminine qualities of white grapes with the deep, powerful and rich flavors of red. This is an art form and the very foundation that makes each house's style unique.

Which brings us to another dilemma, Champagne taste on a beer budget. If Champagne is not in your price range, there are alternatives that provide great value. When scanning a restaurant wine list or perusing the shelves of your favorite wine shop, consider sparkling selections form California, Spain, Italy, Portugal or Australia.

As with Champagne, keep in mind that sparkling wines are produced in styles ranging from dry to slightly sweet. Some are feather light in body, while others are rich and full on the palate.

Some that have caught my eye recently include Methode Champenoise, produced by CAVA from Spain; "Boutique" PROS ECCO from Italy; a light and rustic Cremant de Limoux from Southern France; and sparklers from California's Anderson Valley.

If you have a hard time remembering such things, I recommend you consult the on-site wine expert in a store or restaurant to help you make a choice. Hopefully you'll be able to describe what you are looking for.

Just keep in mind, flowers and chocolates are nice, but a well-chilled bubbly is so wonderfully romantic and will completely enhance the evening's ambiance.

Isn't that what Valentine's Day is all about?


Mark Shishido is restaurant manager for Alan Wong's Restaurants. This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.




This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
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