By The Glass
CHUCK FURUYA
Wednesday, January 2, 2002
Can you believe we are already at the beginning of 2002? Time to close the books on the old year with these tidbits on wine. In 2002, resolve to seek
out wines of texture, finesseSyrah, the new "darling" grape variety: Most people think Syrah to be a huge, dense, opulent behemoth of a red wine. The Australians and their mega-extracted, absolutely humongous, single-vineyard Shiraz probably had something to do with that. Just remember, there is much more to Syrah than bigness and decadence. In fact, at its best, Syrah is the only red grape, besides Pinot Noir, that can combine intensity, depth, ageability and completeness with intricacy, finesse and nobility. As an example, taste the 1999 St. Joseph "Offerus" by JL Chave.
Intensity and concentration: Wines can be intense yet VERY light in body (try the Lavantureux Chablis from France as an example). Conversely, a wine can be absolutely huge and decadent yet lack concentration. Learning the difference can help you find some real noteworthy wines.
Texture and balance: I am finding more and more that both these characteristics play a very important role when pairing wines with foods. Seamlessly textured and well-balanced wines seem to match up with foods much better.
Take a second look: Retaste some of the (media-panned) California 1998 Cabernet-based wines. You're certain to find some real gems. Specifically, try the Forman, Justin Isosceles and Laurel Glen "Estate." Very Bordeaux-esque, but very impressive nonetheless.
Tasty and interesting wines served on an airline? Hawaiian Airlines has been awarded "Best Red Wine in First Class Service -- Domestic Flights" by Business Traveller magazine for the 1999 Vita Nova Sangiovese-Merlot, a sleek, superbly elegant, food-friendly blend crafted by superstar Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat. (And just wait till they try the newly released 2000 Chardonnay, crafted exclusively for Hawaiian by Bryan Babcock!)
Looking ahead
New releases: The 2000 single-vineyard Pinot Noirs from Au Bon Climat, Babcock and Whitcraft -- oh, my goodness!!!! Also, the 2001 German wines from VDP estates, 2000 single-vineyard reds from Edmeades, 2000 St. Joseph from JL Chave and -- from what I hear -- wines from France's great estates of the northern Rhone Valley in general.Food and wine pairings: A bowl of Beef Luau stew (and a side order of pipikaula) from Leong's Hawaiian Cafe, with a well-chilled bottle of Bonny Doon's Vin Gris de Cigare dry rosé. Or, a Piadina (Italian-style flatbread stuffed with prosciutto, mozzarella and arugula) from the Academy of Arts Pavilion Cafe, with a glass of slightly chilled Charles Joguet Chinon.
Finally, only in restaurants: Alan Wong's 2000 Cabernet-Cabernet "Paso Robles" and 2000 Pinot Noir "Santa Maria Valley" (only available at the two Hawaii restaurants). And Halekulani's 2000 "Cuvee Joy" Riesling (produced from the Graacher Domprobst vineyard in Germany).
Have an absolutely GREAT 2002!
This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
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