CALIFORNIA PEAR ADVISORY BOARD

Slices of life

Bread eaters of the world, 2002 is
your year, the Year of the Sandwich,
as declared by the people who
bring us wheat

---

By Betty Shimabukuro
bshimabukuro@starbulletin.com

Long ago, as legend has it, a guy by the name of John Montagu, the fourth Earl of Sandwich, got hungry, but didn't want to abandon his place at the card table. So he called for bread and meat, put one inside the other, and was able to eat without interrupting his winning streak. And the sandwich was born.

This happened 240 years ago, according to the Wheat Foods Council, the advocacy group that safeguards America's relationship with bread.

The council has declared 2002 the "Year of the Sandwich," and is devoting quite some time and effort to proclaiming the wonders of this compact and efficient little meal form.

It should be noted that it was this same Earl of Sandwich who bankrolled Capt. James Cook on his explorations of the high seas, and thus when the bread-eating world stumbled across these poi-eating islands, they became known in some quarters as the Sandwich Isles.

Now that was a somewhat transparent attempt to bring this story home, and why not?

We embrace the sandwich here in the isles, even localizing the concept by way of shrimp tempura sandwiches and kim chee on our burgers.

WHEAT FOODS COUNCIL This Vegetarian Sandwich, with zucchini, bell peppers and mushrooms, cuts calories in the new year.

And what is Spam musubi, if not a sandwich? Without bread. Sort of.

All that aside, the holidays have done quite a bit of damage to most of our pocketbooks, so it is time for home lunch again, and for many of us this means sandwiches.

It's a good time to consider some new ways of fixing this portable meal.

"When a sandwich is properly executed, there is a balance of flavors and textures in each bite. Too much filling or a bread that is too thick or thin can ruin a sandwich."

So says chef Alfred Portale in the "Gotham Bar and Grill Cookbook" of his acclaimed New York restaurant. Them's fancy words for such a proletarian food, but they show that sandwich-making can involve some artistry.

Portale also says, "Simplicity can be a sign of perfection."

In that spirit, here are some easy ideas for adding interest to a sandwich:

>> Fruits provide extra nutrition, as well as sweetness and crunch. Apple slices are great with grilled cheese; so are pear slices with cold cuts (as in the photograph on this page). Dried fruits such as prunes and figs are a good fit with salty fillings such as ham or peanut butter.

>> There is more to bread than white and wheat. Try bagels, English muffins, pita breads and tortillas. For children, use cookie cutters to cut out critter-shaped sandwiches.

>> Consider spreads besides mustard and mayonnaise, like hummus, apple or cranberry sauce, cream cheese or horseradish.

>> OK, this isn't healthy, but you can boost your lunchtime efficiency by putting your potato chips inside the sandwich. It adds textural interest and can kick up the taste of a bland filling.

>> Consider non-sandwich foods that are high in protein, such as beans. Mashed, they make a spread. Or put baked beans and grated cheddar on a thick, chewy bread.

Aaron Littman is one young man who has made a study of the sandwich.

Out of Cincinnati, Ohio, Littman maintains the online Official Sandwich Homepage -- http://www.geocities. com/yummeesandwich/

The site is a collection of sandwich suggestions from all over the world.

The Banana Ramma Bonanza Sandwich, for example, calls for banana, lettuce, tomato, pickles, peppers, sprouts, spinach, two kinds of cheese and horseradish on a sourdough bun.

Littman allows visitors to design their own sandwiches, using his fill-in-the-blank form, for no purpose other than the glory of creation and sharing.

A Maui resident suggested a Kalua Pig Sandwich, using "underground roast pork," Maui onions and cheddar and Monterey Jack cheeses.

Littman, a 25-year-old civil engineer, says he began the site in 1995 as a way of displaying his resume and computer-generated artwork, but thought he'd attract more visitors if the site was about something more than just him.

He picked sandwiches as a universal topic, although his favorite is nothing more adventurous than peanut butter and jelly -- "I eat a few per week." (By the way, the Wheat Council says PB&J is also President Bush's favorite).

Sandwich ideas have come to his site from Japan, Malaysia, Australia and all over Europe, Littman says.

He received a bit of a cultural education when someone posted a sandwich called a Tar Baby on his site -- it was made of peanut butter, marshmallows and chocolate sauce and the name referred to its stickiness.

A reader was quick to point out the negative racial connotations of the name.

"I was unaware of the reference and have since changed the name of the sandwich," Littman says.

"But I never thought I would be called 'scum' and told to 'rot in hell' because of a sandwich recipe."

And with that, on to the recipes. The possibilities are endless, so to narrow the field, all these sandwiches have bread top and bottom -- no wraps or pitas.

They range from light vegetarian offerings to Portale's very hearty Grilled Tuna Club to Emeril Lagasse's po'boy with fried oysters and shrimp.

May they provide you with some new ideas for a meal you already know so well.

Vegetarian Sandwich

Wheat Foods Council
1 small zucchini, cut lengthwise in 4 1/4-inch slices
1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and quartered
Cooking spray
4 to 5 large mushrooms, sliced
1 medium tomato, in 14-inch thick slices
14 teaspoon salt
14 teaspoon black pepper
Dried basil leaves, to taste
2 tablespoons light, garden vegetable cream cheese
4 slices bread, toasted
Spinach leaves (optional)

Coat both sides of zucchini, pepper, and mushrooms with cooking spray. Place on grill rack or broiler pan coated with cooking spray; broil 3 to 4 minutes on each side or until tender. Add mushrooms and broil 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat; sprinkle with salt, pepper and basil.

Spread cream cheese on toast. Layer zucchini, peppers, mushrooms and tomato on two slices of toast; add spinach, if desired. Top with remaining toast slices. Cut each sandwich in half. Serves 2.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving: 232 calories, 6 g fat, 9 mg cholesterol, 638 mg sodium, 9 g protein, 39 g carbohydrate, 4 g fiber.

Portabello, Spinach and Tomato Sandwich

"Moosewood Restaurant New Classics" (Clarkson/Potter, 2001, $25.95)
1 loaf French or Italian bread, long enough to make 4 6-inch sandwiches
6 ounces spinach leaves (see note)
8 slices tomato
Salt and pepper to taste
>> Mushrooms:
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
Mustard, salt and pepper to taste
4 portabello mushrooms, stems removed

To prepare mushrooms: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Combine oil, garlic, mustard, salt and pepper. Slice portabellos 1/2- to 3/4-inch thick. Brush with oil mixture. Place 1 inch apart on baking sheet. Roast 4 to 8 minutes per side (or broil 3 to 5 minutes per side).

To assemble sandwiches: Slice bread lengthwise. Layer one half with mushroom, spinach and tomato. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover with other bread half; slice. Makes 4 sandwiches.

Note: Spinach may be steamed, but be sure to squeeze out liquid.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per sandwich: 441 calories, 14.5 g fat, no cholesterol, 773 mg sodium, 8 g protein, 66 g carbohydrate, 6 g fiber.

Grilled Tuna Club

"Gotham Bar & Grill Cookbook" by Alfred Portale (Doubleday, 1997, $45)
1 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh tarragon (or 3/4 teaspoon dried)
1 teaspoon anchovy paste
White pepper to taste
12 slices pancetta
1-1/2 pound tuna steak, about 1 inch thick
2 tablespoons olive oil
Coarse salt to taste
12 slices white bread, lightly toasted
2 tomatoes, thinly sliced
4 lettuce leaves

Combine mayonnaise with chives, tarragon and anchovy paste. Season with pepper. Refrigerate.

Sauté pancetta over medium-high heat, 5 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels.

Brush tuna with oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill or broil until medium rare, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Cut into 1/2-inch slices.

Spread bread slices with mayonnaise and layer as follows: bread, tuna, bread, pancetta, lettuce, tomato, bread. Secure with toothpicks and press firmly. Cut in half. Makes 4 sandwiches.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving (not including salt to taste): 1,030 calories, 66 g total fat, 12 g saturated fat, 130 mg cholesterol, greater than 1,300 mg sodium, 53 g carbohydrate, 56 g protein.*

Oyster Po' Boy

Emeril Lagasse, via www.foodtv.com
Oil for deep-frying
Large French loaf, split
1/2 cup tartar sauce
6 slices tomato
1/2 cup shredded green lettuce
3 dashes hot sauce
12 oysters, shucked
4 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 cup cornmeal
1 tablespoon Creole spice

Heat oil to 360 degrees. Spread bread halves with tartar sauce; top one half with tomatoes, lettuce and hot sauce. Set aside.

Toss oysters and shrimp in cornmeal seasoned with Creole spice. Fry oysters, in batches, until golden and crispy, turning several times. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Pile oysters and shrimp on bread. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving (not including salt to taste): 775 calories, 39 g total fat, 9 g saturated fat, 150 mg cholesterol, greater than 1,500 mg sodium, 79 g carbohydrate, 26 g protein.*

Click for online
calendars and events.