[ SUNDAY TRAVEL ]
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Homes on the range A sailor from Massachusetts jumps ship on the Big Island in the early 1800s, befriends a Hawaiian king and marries his granddaughter. The couple builds a house on two acres of land they purchase for $10. Over the years their property grows to 225,000 acres, becoming one of the largest ranches in the United States.
The Parker family left "an amazing
legacy" that comes to life when
touring their residencesBy Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi
Special to the Star-BulletinThis reads like a script for a Hollywood drama, but it sums up the story of Parker Ranch, whose vast green pastures unfold like a luxurious carpet around the town of Waimea and between the Kohala Mountains and Mauna Kea. The ranch is a Big Island landmark, and its founder, John Palmer Parker, remains one of the most intriguing characters in Hawaii history.
In 1815, King Kamehameha I hired Parker to hunt wild cattle that had been multiplying, uncontrolled, in the uplands of Waimea. The beef, tallow and hides became prized commodities to locals as well as traders and whalers on visiting ships. After marrying Kipikane, Parker built a small homestead called Mana Hale on the slopes of Mauna Kea and began raising a herd of domesticated cattle -- the beginnings of the famed Parker Ranch.
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A wooden saltbox reminiscent of those found in Parker's native New England, Mana Hale had a steep slate roof and multipaned windows. Its simple exterior belied the beauty of its interior, with walls, floors and ceilings constructed of gleaming koa. The mountainside retreat became a welcome stop for travelers, with entertainment often provided by Parker himself. Dressed in a malo (loincloth), he would recite ancient Hawaiian chants that he had learned from Kipikane's brother.Mana Hale had no fireplace, but family members carried a large washtub filled with glowing coals into the living room to cut the chill of up-country evenings. As they and their guests warmed themselves around the tub, they burned sandalwood sticks to perfume the air and roasted peanuts they had picked from the garden.
Portraits, furniture and other personal belongings of John Palmer Parker and his descendants are exhibited today in a reconstructed version of Mana Hale. In 1987 the house's handsome interior was taken apart piece by piece and reassembled like a jigsaw puzzle in the "new" saltbox that stands adjacent to another family home, Puopelu. Mana's original exterior was deemed too brittle to make the 12-mile move from Mauna Kea to Puopelu, which John Palmer Parker II purchased in 1879 from Englishman Charles Notley for $2,720.
The epitome of country elegance, Puopelu rests on a scenic knoll, overlooking rolling meadows, a peaceful lake and a long drive lined with stately eucalyptus trees. Expanded to nearly 8,000 square feet, it has been the residence of a succession of Parkers, the last being Richard Palmer Kaleioku Smart, who died in 1992.
When he turned 20 in 1933, Smart became the sole owner of Parker Ranch. With trusted family friend Alfred Carter in charge of managing the ranch, the gifted Smart was able to pursue a career on Broadway and in top cabarets in the United States and abroad for nearly 30 years, taking the stage in leading roles with stars such as Nanette Fabray, Eve Arden and Carol Channing. When Smart returned to the Big Island for good in 1960, he began a major renovation of Puopelu -- planting a beautiful rose garden; raising the living room ceiling to 16 feet and installing skylights and chandeliers; adding French doors to provide access to the terrace, the site of many lavish parties; and transforming the entire house into a showcase for his valuable collection of antiques and art, including paintings by Renoir, Monet, Degas, Corot and Pissarro.
Address: P.O. Box 458, Kamuela, HI 96743 Parker Ranch Historic Homes
Phone: 885-5433
Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays to Saturdays
Admission: $8.50 for adults, $6 for children 4-11, free for kids under 4. Through the end of the year, those purchasing admission to the Historic Homes will receive free same-day admission to the Parker Ranch Visitor Center and Museum. Admission to the Visitor Center and Museum (which features a video presentation on the ranch and exhibits of saddles, Bibles, clothing and other items that belonged to the Parker family) is normally $6 for adults and $4.50 for children. Paniolo Friday takes place 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Fridays. The program of music and Hawaiian arts and crafts demonstrations is included with Historic Homes admission.
Web site: www.parkerranch.com
Today, Mana and Puopelu highlight a visit to Parker Ranch.
"They have a certain mystique," says Judy Petersen, the ranch's Historic Homes Administrator. "This special spirit is even more evident now, during the holiday season, when we hang wreaths, stockings and other decorations, and when the ranch's official Christmas tree is lit outside."
Artist-in-residence Marcia Ray is in the spotlight this month. A master of oils, acrylics and watercolors, Ray has spent countless hours talking with old-time paniolo to gain a unique perspective of the history of Parker Ranch and Waimea. She has translated those conversations into striking paintings, many of which are on display in Puopelu.
Full of fantastic finds for Christmas, Puopelu's gift shop is a "must" stop for shopaholics. New this year are Paniolo Baskets brimming with goodies such as Parker Ranch's line of coffee and beef jerky; a CD of paniolo music; and poha, taro and awa butter cookies.
The ranch's popular Paniolo Friday program, featuring different kupuna each week, will continue throughout the holiday season. Talented elders from Waimea "talk story" with visitors and teach them how to make leis, play the ukulele, sew a Hawaiian quilt and other cultural activities.
In short, says Petersen, "Mana and Puopelu are a very unique part of Hawaii that shouldn't be missed. The history of the Parker family reads like fiction, and you have a hard time believing that everything they went through really happened. When you walk through the homes, though, it all comes to life. You can see pictures of the family, the letters they wrote, the books they read, the plates they ate off of, even the beds they slept in. You get a real sense of how the Parker family lived and all the things they accomplished. The Parkers left an amazing legacy not only for their heirs, but for all of Hawaii."
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a free-lance writer based in Honolulu.