[ SUNDAY TRAVEL ]
WE saw her "blow," first spotting the misty vapor plume that results when a whale exhales at the ocean's surface. Then we saw her body, a massive pewter wall rising slowly above the surface of the sea on the starboard side of the boat. The captain killed the engines. By law, we couldn't approach within 100 yards of her.
Whale-watching ranks as
Cruises, and how to choose
one of Maui's top activities
from December to AprilBy Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi
Special to the Star-BulletinBut the humpback came to us. She must have been curious because she swam gently around us, turning and rolling, at times coming so close I could see the barnacles on her belly. Incredible, amazing, spellbinding -- no word completely captures the majesty of that encounter. It remains one of the most memorable experiences of my life.
"There are so many reasons why humpback whales are fascinating," says Anne Rillero, director of marketing and public relations for the Pacific Whale Foundation, whose mission is to promote appreciation, understanding and protection of whales. "They weigh 40 to 45 tons at adulthood but move as gracefully as swans. Their tail muscles are so powerful, they can propel their entire bodies out of water with a just a few strokes of their tail flukes. They can find their way to Hawaii over thousands of miles. ... Clearly, they are intelligent animals. And they are mammals like us."
Each winter, between 3,500 and 4,500 humpbacks -- an endangered species -- migrate to Hawaii from Alaska waters to mate, give birth and raise their young. They congregate in the sheltered area between Maui, Lanai, Kahoolawe and Molokai, where the sea depth averages 250 feet. Such shallow water is a good place for them to give birth and care for their calves because predators, including large sharks, are less likely to be found here. In addition, the four islands serve as a windbreak, keeping the waters in this area relatively calm.
The seas off South Maui also are warm and clear, with temperatures averaging in the low 70s and visibility often at 75 to 100 feet. The warm water is ideal for the calves, which are born without much blubber. The visibility makes it easier for their mothers to see and respond to predators.
PACIFIC WHALE FOUNDATION
>> Speed of the air exhaled during a whale's blow: 300 mph Humpback facts
>> Weight of a humpback's tongue: 2 tons
>> Span of a humpback whale's tail fluke: 15 feet
>> Size of a newborn calf: 12 feet long and weighs 2 tons
>> Amount of milk consumed each day by a newborn calf: 100 to 130 gallons
>> Percentage of fat in whale milk: 40 to 50 percent
>> Number of years humpbacks live: 30 to 40
Humpbacks often can be spotted very close to Maui's shores. On a whale-watching cruise, you're likely to be rewarded with a sighting within 10 minutes of leaving the harbor. You also can watch whales from the beach or even from the car as you drive along Honoapiilani Highway between Maalaea and Lahaina.
"We have seen humpbacks in water that's less than 12 feet deep," says Greg Kaufman, president and founder of the Pacific Whale Foundation. "They can often be seen frolicking less than 100 yards from the shoreline, particularly in the Olowalu, McGregor Point and Kealia Pond shoreline areas. Once at Olowalu, I observed a pod of eight animals swim to within 50 yards of the shoreline."
Kaufman says the best way to spot humpbacks is to scan the horizon, looking for a blow and large splashes caused by activities such as breaching or tail slapping. Another indication is a boat that is sitting still for no apparent reason; there's likely to be a whale nearby.
"Keep in mind that the average 'down time' for a whale is seven to 15 minutes," Kaufman said. "If you see a whale dive, keep watching in that area, and you will likely see it again before 20 minutes are up."
It's no wonder that from December through April, whale watching ranks tops among Maui's activities. In Rillero's opinion, "The thrill of going on a whale watch is the pure wonder of encountering a wild and majestic animal many times larger than yourself. Yes, you can see whales on television, but when you encounter a real whale in its natural habitat, living wild and free, that's a moment you won't forget. To see the power of the whale as it breaches, to hear its haunting songs -- these are rare experiences that show you how amazing the natural world is."
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a
free-lance writer based in Hawaii.
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The following companies offer whale-watching cruises on Maui. Call them for tour schedules, prices (some offer kama'aina discounts) and other information. Whale-watching cruises
West Maui, Kaanapali Beach
Gemini 661-2591 Trilogy IV 661-4743 World Class 667-7733 Zip-purr Charters 667-2299 West Maui, Lahaina Harbor
America II 667-2195 Ehukai and Kaulana 871-1144 Manutea 879-8811 Maui Nui Explorer 873-3475 Maui Princess 667-6165 Paragon Sailing Charters 244-2877 Ultimate Rafting 667-5678 Whale II 879-8811 Windjammer 667-2179 West Maui, Mala Wharf
Capt. Steve's Rafting 667-5565 Ocean Riders 661-3586 South Maui, Maalaea Harbor
Blue Dolphin 661-3333 Lahaina Princess 667-6165 Maka Kai 879-4485 Ocean Spirit 879-8811 Pacific Whale 879-8811 Prince Kuhio 242-8777 Trilogy V 661-4743 Wailea Kai 879-4485 South Maui, Kihei Boat Ramp
Blue Water Rafting 879-7238
With so many options available, selecting a whale-watching cruise can be mind-boggling. These guidelines from the Pacific Whale Foundation can help you make a wise choice. How to choose your cruise
>> Experience of the tour operator. Check out the number of years the company has been in business and the number of passengers it has served.
>> Comfortable, modern boats. Consider the age, condition and stability of the boats; whether they have bathrooms and a shaded cabin; and if their design offers good viewing for all passengers. Avoid bumpy raft rides if you are pregnant or have back problems. If the vessel is equipped with hydrophones that enable you to listen to whale songs, all the better!
>> Knowledgeable, enthusiastic marine naturalists. Guides who are marine biology graduates and who are involved in whale research definitely enhance the quality of the tour.
>> Research and educational opportunities. Some tour operators offer on-board programs for kids. It's also fun to be on a cruise that allows you to assist with whale research.
>> Cruise benefits whales. Companies that recycle, work to reduce pollution, use alternative fuels and vessels that are designed to reduce noise and air pollution, or otherwise display concern and caring for the whale's environment earn high marks. Also look for companies that donate a portion of their proceeds to marine education, research and conservation.
You can receive a free guide, "Watching Hawaii's Humpback Whales," by sending a self-addressed, stamped (55 cents) envelope to the Pacific Whale Foundation, Free Whale Guide, 101 N. Kihei Rd., Kihei, HI 96753. In addition, PWF will be hosting a free Whale Information Station at McGregor Point Lookout, a prime whale-watching location on Honoapiilani Highway between Maalaea and Lahaina, from 8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. daily between Saturday and May 15.
