French & fabulous Attitude was replaced by a quiet dignity as the French Festival Fashion Ball returned to its roots, reconnecting with its reason for existence during the staging of "Technique Moderne."
The French Festival rediscovers its
founding principles with an upbeat,
intimate look at front-line high fashionBy Nadine Kam
nkam@starbulletin.comGone was the long runway of the past, replaced Saturday night by a small stage in the middle of the Hilton Hawaiian Village Coral Ballroom, where the models -- in groupings of 12 per designer segment -- posed in vignettes. This also marked a return to the intimacy of Paris haute couture salon showcases that predated the glitzy extravaganzas developed for the world media.
The ball has always been short on speeches and long on theatrics. This year, the festival saw fit to take time out to honor retired Louis Vuitton vice president and COO Gary Hahn, who along with Chanel's Joyce Okano Reed founded the festival in 1996.Addressing the crowd of 550, Hahn said that before the festival's creation, Hawaii's high-end retailers competed heavily against each other before realizing a strategy of uniting to promote excellence and aloha spirit both here and abroad, would benefit business and the state in bringing people to the islands.
"That's what made the French Festival successful," he said, "and that's what it will take to rebuild Hawaii."
The festival also honored legendary mime Marcel Marceau, who performed at the Hawaii Theatre Thursday and Friday nights. Gov. Ben Cayetano took the stage to proclaim Nov. 3 Marcel Marceau Day in Hawaii, with the performer miming a particularly expressive acceptance speech to the audience's delight.As if sensing that there were a lot of husbands and boyfriends in the crowd who may have wanted to be elsewhere, KITV's Gary Sprinkle, who along with wife and partner in news Pamela You shared emcee duties, kept updating the crowd on the score of the University of Hawai'i-San Jose game. Each leading score was met by loud, appreciative cheers from the audience. Football and fashion -- what more could anyone ask for?
Although billed as getting a 6 p.m. start, the audience was given an hour to chat, bid on the silent auctions, and most importantly, check each other's finery. The primary color choice was black, and while a few black outfits stood out, like Beverly Noa's ruched Chanel skirt, it was color that caught the eye. Sheila Donnelly-Theroux stood out in a fiery red Chanel ensemble; Ellen Copeman paired a simple sweater top with a Christian Lacroix ready-to-wear skirt, a grafitti-like patchwork of embroidery, beading and sequins over black net; and Christie Goda showed the power of black-and-white in a Polo by Ralph Lauren gown in a sequined chevron design.One of the biggest statements was made by a visitor from Japan, Emiko Takemure, a fan of Dior designer John Galliano. She paired a pastel kimono and a Dior handbag, for a mix of traditions east and west.
Dior opened the show with Galliano's spring 2002 prêt-à-porter collection. The designer had withheld this show from the Paris runways, opting to debut it in Honolulu. Appropriately, it was full of sunshine and flowers. Shown were logo swimsuits, flirty floral bikinis paired with neon-colored, wide-patterned fishnet stockings and rubber tabis, and T-shirts embroidered with hibiscus.These were followed by flowing floral dresses in the most delicate, fluttery silk chiffons and a colorful collection of pantsuits embellished with rhinestones and embroidery of butterflies and flowers.
According to Willy Lima, the director of couture development for Christian Dior, these were inspired by an auction of rodeo singers' wardrobe.
Even as purveyors of luxury goods brace for tough times, the show's message was positive and upbeat."The clothes are so happy, so perfect to show as a distraction from real fears," said Lima, who traveled from New York with the collection. "John and the house feel really strongly that we are not going to be dimmed by terrorism. We feel that if we stop then they've really got us.
"This show is really optimistic. We don't do somber things at Dior."
Next up was an opulent fantasy showcase by Christian Lacroix, presented by Neiman Marcus. Dresses and pantsuits were studded with rhinestones, beading, buttons, ribbons and tufts of silk chiffon.
A tutu dress was topped by a tulle cape trimmed in fox fur in scarlet and purple pastels. Models wore heavily ornamented berets, that looked appropriate for a masquerade, or bullfight.
A silver lace bustier dress was accompanied by lace headgear combining Spanish mantilla and Elizabethan ruff.
The mix and match flavor of the collection was inspired by world travels as if to suggest to those afraid of flying that the world can come to you.To close, there were elegant, understated wool pantsuits from Chanel, followed by a grouping of what looked like satin sheaths. As the models came closer, three-piece ensembles were revealed, comprising long pencil skirts and short corsets topped by sleeveless midriff tops.
In the Lacroix and Chanel segments, video from Paris shown on big screens segued seamlessly into the live show.
Square USA president Hironobu Sakaguchi, seated at the Hermés table, said the experience was inspiring.
Gloria Ah Sam, of Malama -- An Aveda Lifestyle Salon and Spa, left saying, "I loved the spirit of the festival this year. It was more heartfelt than before. It made my heart sing because everyone's been through so much."
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