[ SUNDAY TRAVEL ]
Immersed in Man could not create a more spectacular stadium, I think, as Lawrence Aki talks about Naiwa, where ancient Hawaiians held their Makahiki festivals, similar to the Greeks' Olympics. "Villages in the various districts would send their champions here to compete in boxing, wrestling, spear throwing, running, holua sledding and other sports," he said.
magic of Molokai
Hikers hark back to the ancient
Makahiki festivals while gazing
at the beauty of todayBy Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi
Special to the Star-BulletinIt's a virgin expanse of forests, plains, cliffs and gullies in north central Molokai that we're exploring on a warm, still Sunday morning.
The Makahiki began the middle of October each year and lasted about four months, according to Aki. "Weapons were put aside and war was banned. Instead, the focus was on the competitions. Even the kings participated."
Aki's knowledge comes from a lifetime of living on Molokai and from his grandparents and other kupuna (elders), such as Hawaiian historian and kumu hula Harriet Ne, who first brought him to Naiwa more than 30 years ago. It was Ne who showed Aki the hidden treasures of this special place; today, as both tour guide and teacher, he will reveal some of those treasures to six visitors who share a passion for hiking and Hawaiian history.
The wrestling arena was located in a gully called Mimo, whose sides were terraced to serve as seats for spectators.
In ancient times, a heiau stood atop a hill to the west of Mimo. Dedicated to the god Lono, this temple was where the king resided during the Makahiki season.
The location of the temple was significant; in addition to breathtaking views of Molokai's north and south shores, it overlooked Maunaloa mountain to the west. Kaana, a hill on Maunaloa, is regarded as the birthplace of the hula. During the Makahiki, apprentices of the hula graduated at the two-tiered uniki pa hula (hula mound) in Naiwa, which is now nearly concealed by pili grass, lauae, lama, Christmas berry, wiliwili and owi.
Both tiers are the same size -- 40 feet wide and 70 feet long -- but one stands two feet above the other. The lower pa hula was for the students. The higher pa hula was reserved for the kumu; any student who was caught stepping on it was immediately expelled from the halau. Aki notes this uniki pa hula faces west, toward Kaana, "because that is where worship to the hula goddess, Laka, takes place until this very day."
Our journey takes us past horses grazing in green pasture to a cluster of stones, the largest two standing upright. Long ago, so the story goes, the gods Kane and Kanaloa came to Molokai by canoe, landing at the southwest point, Laau Point, which is an uhane lele, or gateway to the spirit world. Kane immediately took his magical staff and plunged it into the ground, and a spring appeared.
"Today, if you go to that spot, you'll find a hole in the ground," Aki said. "What the Hawaiians did was line the inner wall with stones, and the water would flow in and fill this hole. That's where the people on this side of the island would get their water."
Kane also took his magical staff to the west side and south shore of Molokai, where he plunged it into the ground and created seven more water holes. "Areas like Waieli, Kahinawai and Waiakane are clearly identified with springs," observes Aki. "Whenever you hear the word 'wai,' it's associated with water."
The two gods then headed north, where they entered the land of Po, the spirit world. Says Aki, "That clearly tells us there is another uhane lele to the north. But in order for them to enter the land of Po, they had to leave behind their physical forms. Those physical forms are believed to be the two stones you see here, the stones of Kane and Kanaloa."
Aki also points out a stone ceremonial bowl from which the king drank awa (kava) mixed with pure rain water before participating in the games; a cliff wall with red earth, which the Hawaiians blended with salt to provide dietary iron; the steep hill where holua sledding took place; the gulch where spear throwers competed; the ridge over which runners raced to bring honor to their village.
Midday, we find ourselves standing atop the cliffs of Naiwa, which rise some 1,500 feet above the ocean. From here, we gaze down at Kalaupapa, the Hansen's disease settlement where Father Damien labored more than a century ago, and the magnificent northern coast of Molokai.
The view and the hike never fail to inspire Aki. "My genealogy takes me back to my ancestors -- the first Polynesians who came here -- and it is their mana (life force) that flows in the land," he says. "Knowing that they roamed this area adds to the meaning of it for me. The magic for me is being able to go to the places that I've heard so much about from my kupuna. This rewards me with a clear understanding of who they were, how they survived and why they did certain things in certain locations.
"I enjoy sharing the history of Naiwa with newcomers. Their reactions make it interesting for me. Sometimes they're surprised at what I tell them; sometimes they're spellbound. And they're always intrigued. Always intrigued."
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a
Hawaii-based free-lance writer.
Address: P.O. Box 259, Maunaloa, Hawaii 96770 Sea Cliff Hike offered
by Molokai RanchPhone: (808) 552-2741 on Molokai or toll-free (888) 729-0059
Time: The hike begins at 9:30 a.m. Sunday through Thursday. Register at Molokai Ranch's Outfitters Center at 8:45 a.m., then board a shuttle van to the trail head, about a 20 minutes away. Children must be at least 12 years old to hike alone. Keiki under 12 must be accompanied by an adult.
Cost: $85 per person for Molokai Ranch guests, including a deli lunch; $125 for non-guests
Web site: www.molokairanch.com