Key Ingredient
Matsutake mushrooms have arrived. These jewels of autumn are highly prized by the Japanese, who believe the mushrooms are more than just a seasonal delicacy. Matsutakes are believed to symbolize fertility, good fortune and happiness. MATSUTAKE MUSHROOMS
The mushrooms are an extremely pricey item, but for some, a necessary indulgence to mark the arrival of fall.
The basics: Matsutake or pine mushrooms are the fruit of the matsutake mycelium fungus, which coats a pine tree's roots. The fungus provides water and nutrients for the growing tree.
Mushrooms form in the underbrush of pine forests throughout Japan, Korea, China, Mexico, Morocco, British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest. Wild matsutakes have a very short season in the fall and are very fragile and perishable.
The grade of mushroom depends on the way the mushroom was harvested and how much of the veil (the membrane under the cap that covers the gills) or blemishes are present. Matsutakes have dark brown caps, with a dense and meaty texture and an equally rich, nutty flavor.
Selecting: Here in the islands we don't have much choice on selection. You grab what is available because of the limited supply and short season. The mushrooms come prepackaged to avoid overhandling. As with other fresh mushrooms, check for spots and blemishes.
Storing: Matsutakes should be used as soon as purchased. They are highly perishable and shouldn't be kept in the refrigerator for more than a day or two.
Use: Because matsutakes are so expensive, they are normally enjoyed in and of themselves. A popular way to serve them is grilled and drizzled with a bit of soy sauce.
Popular Japanese dishes are matsutake rice, in which the mushrooms are steamed along with rice, and matsutake broth, made by simmering the mushrooms in a light soy-based broth.
Where to buy: Marukai is generally the first market to carry matsutakes, with two varieties available this year. Daiei should have them in stock soon. Act fast because matsutakes are only available through November. At about $50 to $70 a pound, they may be too costly for many, but if your budget allows you to indulge, now's the time to do so.
Food Stuffs: Morsels
Contact Eleanor Nakama-Mitsunaga
online through features@starbulletin.com
