Key Ingredient
Foraging for fresh jewels of the forest such as mushrooms and bamboo shoots is uncommon here in Hawaii. We rely on the markets to supply us with produce, with one exception.Warabi, or fiddlehead fern, is one forest crop that has been collected by locals for generations. In the past, foraging was the only way to obtain this tender frond, but an increasing demand has made it available on a wider scale.
The basics: Warabi, pohole (a Maui term) or ho'i'o, are the young, tightly curled shoots of a particular fern. The stalk is a deep green and the head resembles the spiral end of a violin. Known throughout Asia and the Pacific, it also grows in the eastern half of North America, although those ferns are less tender than the local shoots.
In Hawaii, warabi is plentiful on the Hilo side of the Big Island and the Hana side of Maui. But it's not uncommon to find the fern here on Oahu in forested areas such as Tantalus and Manoa Falls.
The young fronds are in their coiled state for only two weeks before they unfurl into the greenery that covers our forests. Warabi has been compared to asparagus in taste and is a good source of vitamins A, C and iron.
Selecting: Look for shoots that are small, firm and brightly colored with no signs of yellowing. Avoid stalks that are wilted or soft.
Storing: Warabi should be used immediately after purchase. It can be kept, if necessary, tightly wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
Use: Rinse fern shoots before using to remove any fine hairs and cut off the tough fibrous ends. Young tender shoots are perfect raw in salads or poke. Or, blanch briefly and enjoy simply as a side dish with a bit of soy sauce. The Japanese enjoy warabi in a nutritious dish called sansai, a combination of mountain vegetables. Warabi can also be stir-fried with shiitake mushrooms and dried shrimp or other vegetables.
Where to buy: In some parts of the country, fiddlehead fern is only available from April through July, but in Hawaii it is generally available year-round. Marukai and some of the farmers' markets seem to have a steady supply.
The other option is to purchase it online through a farm on Maui called Hana Herbs and Flowers. Their pohole runs about $5 a pound, but owner Eileen Comeaux says you shouldn't be afraid to ask for a kama'aina rate. She's been in business for nearly 14 years and sells her shoots all over the country through www.hanaherb.com. You can also call her at (808) 248-7407. If all else fails, there's always foraging!
Food Stuffs: Morsels
Contact Eleanor Nakama-Mitsunaga
online through features@starbulletin.com
