[ SUNDAY TRAVEL ]
Before starting my vacation, people kept asking, "Where are you going?""San Francisco," I'd say, drawing many coos and sighs.
"San Francisco is a great city," they'd say. "So many great restaurants." "Don't pack anything, you can buy all your clothes there."
"... and Portland," I'd say, throwing in "Oregon" for those with East Coast pasts for whom Portland will forever be wedded to Maine.
The responses: "Why'd you wanna go there?" or "What's in Portland?" Portland -- Oregon, that is -- earns high marks for the wisdom and foresight of its eco-friendly master plan, limiting development in favor of maintaining a greenbelt around the lush, beautiful city bounded by the Pacific Ocean and the Willamette and Columbia Rivers.
But as far as destinations go, Portland gets no respect, not even from its residents. "Are you having fun?" they'd ask."Of course!" I'd reply after a late night at the clubs.
"Really?"
"Most people come for business," said one of the employees at the Heathman, one of the city's more upscale hotels.
"What? Nobody comes to Portland for pleasure?"
"Hardly."
To be quite clear, Portland residents love the urban-pastoral quality of life and the community spirit evident in lively exchanges played out in the city's street papers, and the weekly art marts and events that lure people out to mingle, such as the foodie celebration, "Bite of Portland," held last weekend. Maybe blandness is the price one pays for happiness, for this is the kind of place known for rose and tea gardens that conjure images of slow-moving grannies, where shops close by 6 p.m., restaurants by 9 or 9:30 p.m. and good early-to-bed, early-to-rise non-jaywalking sorts dwell. The city even won an award for politeness.
As the Seattle Post-Intelligencer's Ted Van Dyk wrote: "Oregon, as seen from Seattle, is a good place but also a complacent, mainly white-bread Pendleton-shirt-wearing, slower-moving enclave of the bland being led by the bland."
All this does seem to add up to one yawn of a city. But ...
... after five days I was sad to be leaving so soon. This was my third trip in six years to the city, and I always find more lurking below the surface worth exploring. Here's a beginner's guide to Portland to help you get to what you're looking for. Let your interests guide you:
Neighborhoods
The City of Portland is divided into five sections: North, Southeast, Southwest, Northwest and Northeast. The Willamette is the East-West divider while Burnside Street separates North from South.Within the city limits are fabulous mixed-use neighborhoods full of character and residents who feel a connection to their communities and businesses. Walk through some of them to catch the young, energetic vibe of the city. For those with an interest in architecture, check out all the wonderful Victorian and Old Portland-style architecture while glimpsing a bit of Portland's future.
>> Pearl District -- Northeast of downtown, industrial and warehouse buildings have given way to lofts, galleries and antiques dealers. Unfortunately, after the first buildings were converted about 10 years ago to warm and profitable receptions, builders started producing, alas, lofts en masse, the newest ones devoid of character and community. Still, as more cafes and businesses flock to the area, this could be a fun, if totally yuppified, place to live someday if you don't mind generic quarters.
>> Hawthorne -- For about four blocks beginning at 34th Avenue, Hawthorne Street is one of the city's coolest destinations, with lots of cafes and coffee shops, New Age, garden and clothing shops, including the vintage emporium Red Light. Residents raised a big stink recently over McDonald's Corp.'s plans to move in. They finally got the company to agree to limit signage and rethink their architecture to blend in with area businesses. Get there by bus No. 14.
>> Belmont -- This area, a couple of blocks running parallel to Hawthorne's hip district, is often called the "New Hawthorne." It has a way to go before becoming as big, but the casual visitor will be able to see its potential. Get there by hopping bus No. 40. Then walk four blocks South and you'll reach Hawthorne. While shopping during the summer, try to head East so you're not walking into the sun.
>> Northwest -- Some of Portland's most fashionable boutiques and eateries are on NW 21st and 23rd Aves. Sit at a sidewalk cafe for an afternoon of people watching. It's within walking distance from the Mallory Hotel, but you'll have to pass some heavy construction. Get there on bus No. 15 or MAX.
Parks and gardens
Oregon Zoo -- Be prepared to spend a whole day at the zoo that takes advantage of 64 acres of natural Oregon forest to provide a verdant backdrop for its many visitors and residents, including sea lions and otters, elephants, tigers, giraffes, polar bears and zebras.My favorite exhibits were those of the African Weaver birds and naked mole rats that seem to be the mammalian version of termites with overbites that can chew through concrete. Don't miss the aviary where lorikeets swoop and some are friendly enough to eat out of your hands. Beware of flying poop.
>> Hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. April 1 through Sept. 30; 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Oct. 1 through March 31.
>> Admission: $6.50 for adults (12 to 64), $5 for 65 and older, $4 for keiki 3 to 11, and free for 2 and under.
>> Call: (503) 220-2493 or visit http://www.oregonzoo.com
>> Get there: Hop on the MAX or board Bus #63 to Washington Park. A park shuttle will whisk you to the Japanese and Rose gardens.
>> Note: From June through August, the zoo is host to evening concerts held about once a week with acts such as the Cowboy Junkies, Bruce Hornsby, John Prine, Indigo Girls and Emmylou Harris. Ticket prices range from $8 to $19, which is separate from zoo admission.
International Rose Test Garden -- It's impossible to visit the City of Roses without making an appearance here. Founded in 1917, the garden is the oldest official, continuously operated public rose test garden in the United States, covering 5.12 miles, with 9,000 roses representing some 560 varieties in shades that range from pale peach to vibrant purple, with names like Savoy Hotel or Livin' Easy.
For literary types, the Shakespearean garden displays flowers named after some of the Bard's plays and characters, such as Climbing Ophelia and Sweet Juliet. Even if you're not into roses, the terraced garden offers one of the best views of downtown Portland and Mount Hood. The best months for viewing blossoms are May through September, and early June is when the city hosts its annual rose festival, with a rose show and best rose contest.
>> Where: 400 SW Kingston Ave.
>> Hours: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily
>> Admission: Donation
>> Call: (503) 823-3636
Japanese Tea Garden -- For a city quite slim on diversity, Portland seems to compensate by offering two Asian gardens. This is the more lavish of the two, with five formal gardens covering 5.5 acres beneath Portland's posh West Hills, where the juxtapositions of plants, water and stones reflect Shinto, Buddhist and Taoist philosophies. Allow yourself an hour of serenity.
>> Where: 11 SW Kingston Ave.
>> Hours: Noon to 4 p.m. and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Oct. 1 through March 31; noon to
7 p.m. and 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. April 1 through Sept. 30.
>> Admission: $6 adults; $4 for 62 and older; $3.50 for college students and students 6 to 17; free for 5 and under.
>> Call: (503) 223-0913
Portland Classical Chinese Garden -- Dubbed Lan Su Yuan, or the Garden of Awakening Orchids, this is the largest authentic urban Suzhou-style garden to be created outside of China, covering 40,000 square feet, a city block in Chinatown. Serpentine pathways lead you over a bridged lake filled with lotus, through open pavilions and a tea room for contemplating the views.
The garden, based on a late 14th-century Ming Dynasty design, opened a year ago after nine months of construction with the help of craftsmen from Suzhou, and cost $13 million to build. Even so, it doesn't take more than 45 minutes to thoroughly cover the grounds.
>> Where: NW 3rd Avenue and Everett Street
>> Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Nov. 1 through March 31; 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. April 1 through Oct. 31.
>> Admission: $6 for adults, $5 for 62 and older, $5 for students, free for under 5.
>> Call: (503) 228-8131 or visit http://www.portlandchinesegarden.org
Shopping
Portland Farmer's Market -- From June through October, walk through and sample juicy slices of fresh peaches, a berry or two, slices of fresh herb-topped pizzas, chanterelles picked straight from nearby woods and fruit pies showcasing Oregon's harvest. It's a beautiful but maddening place to be, knowing there's nothing quite like it at home. Check the Web site at http://www.portlandfarmersmarket.org to see where they happen to be at different times of year and what's in season.Portland Saturday Market -- Shop for ceramics wall hangings, jewelry, lamps, candles and other craftsmen from the artists themselves. The market is open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturdays and 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Sundays from the first weekend of March through Christmas Eve in the Historic Old Town near Burnside Bridge and Ankeny Square. Call (503) 222-6072.
Antiques, vintage
Bernadette Breu Antiques & Ornament -- Located in the Pearl District, this is the place to hunt for furniture, home hardware, old prints, jewelry, perfume bottles and the occasional Chinese wedding basket. Breu has a good eye for quality, and you can find some good deals, like an adorable curvy, retro robin's egg blue chair and love seat for about $695. With $500 shipping, it's still about the same price as some of the modern-day monstrosities that furniture retailers seem to favor. At 1134 NW Everett St. Call (503) 226-6565.Sellwood -- This charming neighborhood is the site of 13 blocks of stores offering everything from glass door knobs to Civil War uniforms to vintage jewelry. I think I covered four of those blocks and I was exhausted.
Try to go with someone who likes antiques and collectibles as much as you do (anyone else will be bored and cause you much stress) and make sure the thermometer reads about 65 to 70 degrees. Anything hotter will add up to misery in shops where the air-conditioner is broken or non-existent.While there, check out Misty's Antiques at 8029 SE 13th Ave. where former Hawaii resident Burl Kiyuna makes his living dealing in antique and collectible porcelain, furniture, pottery, glassware and Asian wares. From downtown, hop on the No. 14 bus for Tacoma and get off when you see the Starbucks at 1305 SE Tacoma.
Clothing
In the downtown area, you'll find real estate like Banana Republic, Nordstrom, Tiffany's and Nike Town. A plus for stocking up there is that Portland has no sales tax. Here are other places to check out if your tastes are more eclectic:Avalon -- Specializes in high-end vintage apparel, jewelry and accessories for men and women, including Hawaiian shirts placed way out of reach suggesting that if you have to ask about the price you can't afford it. At 9th Avenue and Burnside downtown.
Magpie -- More funky clothing and jewelry from the '40s through '80s for men and women, including bowling shirts, cocktail dresses and vintage slips and nightgowns, but at prices starting from $10. At 324 SW 9th Ave.
Seaplane - This is a collaborative effort by 11 or so local designers who share the floor in this hip Belmont boutique. Featured are deconstructed streetwear by Ginger Peach Designs, flirtatious feather-and-mesh evening designs by Holly Stalder and runway-ready neo-classical pieces by Elizabeth Dye. One-of-a-kind originals range from about $30 to $125. At 3356 SE Belmont St.
The Showroom - For a long time this was a men's-only store, catering to those with a taste for Italian threads. This year, they've given up a third of the space to women and named the boutique within a boutique Sugar at the Showroom, where I was happy to discover off-season designerwear discounted to ridiculous levels, and an end of summer sale with Fendi and Prada dresses for $50! Or Roberto Cavalli tops in scrumptious suede for $125! Other labels include Versace, Laundry by Shelli Segal and Miu Miu. At 604 SW 9th Ave.
Omiyage
One source: The Made in Oregon Store, featuring cookbooks, jams, jellies, smoked salmon, hazelnut chocolates, fudge, Jake's chowder mixes, wines, glassware and other gift items. At 921 SW Morrison St. (503) 241-3630.
Dining
Let's just say that coming from San Francisco (see Mauka-Makai, page 3), dining in Portland was disappointing. Although Portlanders seem to be proud of their restaurants, it's probably because they have little to compare them to.The town was buzzing over newbie Dragonfish, a "pan-Asian" restaurant in the glitzy Paramount Hotel. But beef drowned in thick, pasty black bean sauce sprinkled with chopped asparagus and pine nuts? Please. And it took them 45 minutes to deliver a modified California roll. The best thing about the restaurant is its aquarium with a couple of inquisitive bubble-eyed fish that will play hide and seek with you.
About four years ago I had written that they don't do Asian cuisine well in Portland, leaving room for someone with know-how to step in. I had hoped the scene had changed for the better, but no, even in Chinatown the so-called best dim sum joints cannot compare to what we have at home, although I did enjoy the chicken steamed with pickled ginger at Fong Chong, 301 NW 4th Ave.
At Wildwood, Corey Schreiber may be a James Beard Award-winning chef, but just about every dish I had made me wonder "what is he thinking?"
The Heathman's James Beard Award-winning chef Philippe Boulot fared much better. I had one of two good meals here. The other was at India House on Morrison Street where "hot" is really hot, though the usually smooth Indian ice cream was a solid block of ice crystals.
Even O'Conner's, where I had a fabulous lightly crisped oyster sandwich on my last trip disappointed. The oysters were flat and near flavorless, and plain old toasted bread replaced the French roll.
At any rate, you'll save money on dining because you won't be able to stomach much of this.
Night life
Like any major city in the contiguous states, a lot of acts pass through here on any given night. The Oregonian's weekend magazine and Willamette Week are pretty much the guides to what's going on in music, theater, words and film.For music, major venues include the Rose Garden Arena, which recently hosted the Gipsy Kings, Stevie Nicks and James Taylor -- not on the same night -- and the Roseland Theater at 8 NW 6th Ave. and Burnside, where Russell Crowe performed two sold-out concerts Tuesday and Wednesday, playing rock star with his band 30 Odd Foot of Grunts.
The area around Burnside, Ankeny and 2nd Avenue, part of the Old Town District, is prime club territory, where there is still a respectful audience for guitars and balladeers like hometown heroes Joe Davis and Luther Russell, who at times seem to be following the rising wave of lush-voiced solo male vocalists as led by Duncan Shiek and Rufus Wainwright (who performs at the Aladdin Theater Sept. 1), but also find time to rock with bands (the former with the Pinehurst Kids).
Unlike Honolulu, Portland has been slow to embrace DJs, preferring alt-pop performed at places like Berbati's Pan at 231 SW Ankeny, or rock 'n' roll at Satyricon, 125 NW 6th Ave.
Other attractions
Portland Art Museum -- The highlight through Sept. 22 is the exhibition "Meiji -- Arts of Imperial Japan: Masterworks from the Khalili Collection," featuring nearly 400 lacquer, ceranmic enamel and procelain objects displaying the artistry of the Meiji period. Opening Sept. 8 will be "En Suite," 55 post-World War II prints from artists such as Jasper Johns, Roy Lichtenstein and Andy Warhol. The show will continue through Jan. 6. On view beginning Oct. 4 will be "European Masterpieces: Six Centuries of Paintings from the National Gallery of Victoria, Australia," through Jan. 6.>> Where: 1219 SW Park Ave.
>> Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesdays to Saturdays and noon to 5 p.m. Sundays
>> Admission: Prices vary. Call (503) 790-ARTS (2787).
OMSI -- Drat, I had to leave town before the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry opened its reptile and amphibians show Labor Day weekend. It's at 1945 SW Water Ave. Call (503) 797-4000.
Down on the farm -- If you want to know where your fruit comes from, the Ripe and Ready Hotline will tell you which farms are open for pick-it-yourself seasonal peaches, nectarines, blueberries, pumpkins, corn, tomatoes, just about anything that grows in Oregon. Call (503) 226-4112.
If you go
Aim for sometime between May and September when the temperature ranges from a fairly comfortable 55 to 75 degrees and you have the best chance of being greeted by some sunshine. Although Seattle has a reputation as a rainy city, Portland is the true champ.If you have the stamina to be on your feet eight hours a day and are able to cover eight miles a day, you won't need a car to get around the city. As out of shape as I am, I got by using MAX, buses and taxis ($6 will get you just about anywhere downtown). Even so, it would be worthwhile if you're spending more than three days here to get a car for a couple of days to explore the neighborhoods or take a day trip to the Oregon coast.
It will cost $1.25 to ride the MAX or buses beginning September, with fares good for hopping from bus to bus until the time marked on top of your transfer runs out, usually about three or four hours, though our drivers never checked.
Visit the Tri-Met office at the town's center, Pioneer Square, for schedules plus brochures on other Oregon attractions such as wine country tours, river cruises and cultural tours.
Taxi rides from the airport to downtown Portland are about $25. There are shuttles parked outside the terminal that will get you there for about $18.
Hotel choices include:
>> The Heathman -- in the center of town. Offers complimentary Oregonian and a choice of the New York Times or Wall Street Journal daily, and free T-1 Internet access in your room if you've got a PC and Ethernet capability. About $159 for a deluxe room which by Hawaii standards are pretty crampy, but nice, to $455 for a two-bedroom suite. Wrangle for a weekend rate. At 1001 SW Broadway at Salmon. Call toll free (800) 551-0011 or (503) 241-4100
>> Mallory Hotel -- just outside downtown, within striking distance of the fashionable Northwest district, this was renovated a few years ago, although rooms are still dressed in an old-fashioned, drab sort of way. It's still nice and clean and staffers are friendly. Rates from about $90 to $155. At 729 SW 15th Ave. at Yamhill Street. Call (800)-228- 8657 or (503) 223-6311.
>> Imperial Hotel -- Another quaint 128-room hotel in the center of town, sister to the Mallory, where guests receive complimentary continental breakfasts. Rates are $100 to $130 a night. At 400 SW Broadway. Call (800) 452-2323 or (503) 228-7221.