[ SUNDAY TRAVEL ]
Maine lighthouse PERCHED majestically atop a rocky cliff, Portland Head Light, the oldest lighthouse in Maine, exudes a romantic mysticism that draws visitors far and near.
glitters with history
The Portland Head Light, finished
in 1791, attracts visitors
with its rich storiesFamilies flock to former forts converted into parks
By Nancy Arcayna
narcayna@starbulletin.comSeagulls soar as the fog settles, allowing gleams of light through. The rocky coastline, breaking waves, sparkling ocean and clean pure salt air add to the allure.
Ghosts of the past seem to lurk in the area as people flock to hear the stories and maybe discover a secret or two. The keeper's quarters have been transformed into a museum where guided tours are available. Pictures, historic descriptions, antique lights, anchors and artifacts line the walls, each with a story to tell.
A rock stands in the waters to the right of the tower, with a painted inscription that reads, "In memory of the ship Annie C. Maguire, wrecked here, Dec. 24, 1886." Fortunately, everyone was rescued from the vessel by the Strout family, the lighthouse keepers. But a few days later, on New Year's Day in 1887, the ship was destroyed during a storm.
A volunteer museum guide tells the story of a parrot named Billy, a well-known member of the Strout household. If weather was bad, Billy would tell the keeper, "Joe, let's start the horn. It's foggy!"
George Washington commissioned the first lighthouse to be built on the coast of Maine, and the structure was finished and functioning in January of 1791. It was first lighted using whale oil lamps. Electricity came to Portland Head Light in 1929.
"It is believed that Henry Wadsworth Longfellow sat at a spot near the base of the tower as an inspiration for his poems," said Cheryl Parker, historian and director of the Museum at Portland Head Light.
Everyone has a different reason to enjoy a visit to the lighthouse. The tranquility and scenery draw me. For others it's the history and bygone tales.
Portland Head Light
Museum hours: 10 a.m.-4 p.m. daily, June 1-Oct. 31. The lighthouse is accessible year round. Weekends, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. April, May, November and December.
Cost: $2 adults; $1 children ages 6-18; children under 6 are free.
Call: 207-799-2661
"It makes you reflect upon how things used to be," said Henry Stewart, a visitor from Rhode Island. "I like to look out at the ocean and think back to the simpler days."
"Some folks stop at each lighthouse along the coast. This is one of the most accessible," Parker said. "There is ample parking and plenty of room for strolling and picnicking. Many others are not accessible by land."
About 350,000 to 400,000 people visit annually, she said.
"Portland Head Light is one of the most beautiful lighthouses on the East Coast," said Tanya Scanlon, a visitor from Baltimore. "We visit several of them each year and are always mesmerized by the serenity we experience at each site."
Arlia Frank of Portland, Maine, plans to wed there next month. "My fiance and I wanted a quaint ceremony. The setting is so romantic, it was our first choice," she said. "The serene surroundings and beautiful grounds will help us create beautiful photos and lasting memories."
Rolling hills, a rocky beach and old battle forts create a near-perfect atmosphere for a family picnic or gathering. Kites soar, children run along the coastline, others relax under a shady tree. Families flock to former
forts converted into parksBy Nancy Arcayna
narcayna@starbulletin.comAn easy trail that begins behind the lighthouse offers a bird's-eye view over the coastline below. Several dilapidated forts can be explored along the trail, each offering a description of the battle fought there.
Fort Williams was named the first military defense in Cape Elizabeth, Maine, by President McKinley in 1894. Nowadays, it is mainly used for family activities and recreation. The onetime war zone provides a safe haven for runners, bikers, picnics, baseball games and an assortment of other activities.
Battery Hobart is one of the forts overlooking the ocean. It is named for Henry Hobart, one of Maine's first military academy graduates, who was killed in action during the War of 1812. A 6-inch gun that was mounted on the battery was removed in the summer of 1913 and transported to Hawaii, where it was used at Pearl Harbor during World War II.
"We appreciate that the park has managed to maintain some of its historic past," said James Giovanni. "I bring my kids here for a picnic or a game of Frisbee, but we always go and explore the forts and try to learn something new."
Ginny Goodwin, a local resident, visits the park on a regular basis. "We like to come out on a hot day and just enjoy a quiet lunch and the nice breeze," she said. "Once lunch is finished, I relax while my husband uses his binoculars to watch the ships pass by."
The Goddard Mansion, with its Italianate villa design, is another fort that still stands on the grounds. The structure was built in 1858 for John Goddard, 1st Colonel in Maine's regiment of cavalry in the Civil War. The U.S. Army took over the property in 1898, and it was used for housing married enlisted men and their families stationed at Fort Williams.
"We always take a dip after visiting the forts. It cools us off after our exploration in the hot sun," said Millie Stanford, who was picnicking with her three children. For those who dare brave taking a swim, beware: The water temperature is about 60 degrees. "It never reaches 70 degrees," said Cheryl Parker, historian and director at the museum at Portland Head Light.