Wednesday, August 15, 2001
Renowned surfer Rabbit Kekai has been honored as a "surfing legend" at the Surfing Walk of Fame in Huntington Beach, Calif. Ride never ends for
Rabbit KekaiIt didn't surprise me that Kekai, now 80, got a lifetime achievement award. What surprised me was his schedule of competition. He'll be in Hawaii a few days in August before heading back to California for a cancer society fundraiser, then to surf in 60-and-older and legends contests.
Kekai won a spot in my heart soon after I moved to Hawaii, when I saw him in the beautiful documentary film "Surfing for Life." After seeing people of 60 years and up sharing their enduring love of surfing, I was inspired to try it myself -- and I asked Kekai to be my teacher.
He put me through the basics on a giant board. Then we paddled out to some gentle Waikiki waves, which he helped me catch, then admonished: "Don't fall down like a turkey."
Which I proceeded to do -- about 30 times.
Besides good health that allowed him to paddle his board with mine in tow, what amazed me about Kekai then was his joy in teaching something he's taught so many times. No attitude. No burnout. Just a love of the ocean, of people and of sharing surfing.
Diana Leone