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How To Speak Geek

by Jay Kam

Wednesday, June 27, 2001



Summer picnics offer
many choices for wines

Summer is here, and that means picnics and barbecues. Among the great things about living in Hawaii are the different ethnic foods we can enjoy outdoors. Teriyaki chicken, kal-bi, lumpia, poke, grilled fish and Chinese chicken salad are all island favorites.

Unfortunately -- or fortunately, depending on how you look at it -- there's no one-wine-fits-all solution to matching each and every dish. That's where the fun of trying different wines with different foods comes in. Here are a few value-minded suggestions.

For grilled meats (kal-bi, teriyaki chicken): A fruity, zesty red wine works well. The obvious choice would be a good Zinfandel. The 1999 Karly Pokerville Zinfandel (around $10) is loaded with berry flavors, shows good depth, and has a touch of earthiness and spice. A more adventurous choice would be 1999 Bodegas Agapito Rico Carchelo (around $10) from Spain. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre, this wine is full of fruit and has some very soft tannins. It has some spice and earthtones as well.

For seafood (poke, grilled fish): The obvious choice would be a middle-of-the-road Chardonnay -- not too heavy and oaky nor too light and fruity. A suggestion from California is the 1999 Bogle Chardonnay ($10-$12) or from France the 1999 Regnard Macon Lugny ($10-$12). Both have good balance and are aged on their lees, a process in which the wine is left in contact with yeasts and solids leftover from the fermenting process. It is a French technique called sur lie that adds depth and complexity.

For nothing at all: A great, refreshing wine for sipping is the 2000 Cascinetta Moscato d'Asti ($11-$14). This mildly sweet, low-in-alcohol, slightly spritzy wine from Italy has pretty flavors of grapefruit and lychee. Surprise soda drinkers with this and watch their reactions.


Jay Kam is president of Vintage Wine Cellar. "How to Speak Geek" is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.

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