The Weekly Eater
THIS BIRD PERSON was sad to see Aina Haina Home and Garden close. This was the place I relied on for bird seed, bird toys, cozies and wing clips. When I vacationed, my birds vacationed here. Once it closed, it didn't seem there would much reason to return. Kalo’s and Teja
close neighbors but
worlds apartBut there was a plan for the property that is turning out to be the 11th Avenue Atrium, a quaint array of boutiques and restaurants. So far, the tenants are a small produce market, a hair salon, the tea salon Teja, the shell of a Japanese restaurant, and likely to become a neighborhood favorite, Kalo's Island Grinds.
Some people go out of their way to avoid telling me their favorite places to eat out of concern that exposure would cause that restaurant to be inundated with new business, thus cheating original patrons out of their secret sanctuary. I can understand. Kalo's is such a tiny place that a visit just by those "Grindz"ing fiends Bruddah Sam and Lina Girl would wipe 'em out. Easy.
KALO'S ISLAND GRINDS
Food Service 1/2
Ambience Value Address: 1137 11th Ave. / 739-2988
Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays to Sundays
Cost: Plates $4.95 to $12.95
In Kalo's neighborhood, though, there are so many restaurants to choose from that people tend to flock to those with the most visibility on Waialae Avenue, and the person who told me about it worried that no one would brave the Atrium maze to find Kalo's food counter.
Actually, there are two counters, one for cooked meals, and one for picking up a salad, sandwich or poke, at about $6.95 to $7.95 per pound. The spicy tako poke, tossed with turnip is the one to try first, unless you like ahi with inamona, which they have in abundance.
The Hawaiian plates range from $5.95 to $8.95, but the real finds are the daily specials, which might range from broiled ono topped with onions at $6.95, about what it costs to make it yourself, to fork-tender ribs ($12.95) slathered with sweet-spicy-tangy poha or mango sauces. Who knows what other secret sauces they may have stashed away? Next time this newspaper has a rib contest, these will have to go up against Deb's.
Kalo's is not the only find in the Atrium. Once you're pau eating, head upstairs to Teja for an otherworldly experience. No grinds here; sit-up-straight, tidy sipping is the rule. Tea for two, three,
four or moreWhile most of the newer tea houses here have focused on European service, with the cutesy sandwiches, pates, sweets and scones, Teja looks East for inspiration.
There are 200 teas available, with more being introduced every day. The shop's list of 20 recommendations -- only because you have to start somewhere -- opens with the Indian trio of Darjeeling, Nilgiri and Assam. I suggest you skip directly to the pale green Formosa oolong. It's been called "the champagne of teas" but that doesn't come close to describing its heavenly demeanor.
To go with the oolong, sample a mochi trio ($3). The best of the set is the delicate warabi mochi, made with a light powder gleaned from fern shoots. It'll leave you wondering why you even bother with its cruder cousin, rice mochi.
Tea leaf readings are offered 4 p.m. to closing Thursdays to Sundays, and you can also learn about tea at seminars conducted by Teja's resident tea connoisseur Gary Patton. You won't find a better initiation into the world of tea.
TEJA
Food N/A Service Ambience Value Address: 1137 11th Ave. / 735-9832
Hours: 3 to 9 p.m. Tuesdays to Fridays; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturdays; 11 to 7 p.m. Sundays
Cost: $2.75 to $4.85 per pot; or $1.20 to $8 per ounce of tea leaves
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously
and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Write her at 7 Waterfront Plaza,
Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or e-mail nkam@starbulletin.comStar ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
excellent; very good, exceeds expectations; average; below average.
