[HOW TO SPEAK GEEK]

Exploring the world of food and wine

By Mark Shishido

Perfect pick
for a plate lunch

The other day I devoured a Monster Mixed Plate Lunch. It had fried boneless chicken with brown gravy, a laulau, beef stew, a scoop of macaroni salad and two scoops white rice. I seasoned it with shoyu and Tabasco. Normally an extra-large cola would be my beverage of choice, but this time I selected a wine.

This is how I broke it down: Like the cola I enjoy with these island favorites, the wine needed to be simple -- nothing serious, light and fruity with crisp acidity, to cleanse the palate between mouthfuls. I didn't want the wine to steal the show, I just needed something tasty to wash down the food.

To match the salty flavors, I wanted good acidity (imagine the combination of shoyu and green mango or a little salt on your pineapple). It couldn't be woody (wood-influenced wine can appear bitter with salty foods). To deal with the Tabasco, I wanted a wine low in alcohol, because higher levels of alcohol in full-bodied wines intensify the heat. Lastly I want tons of fruit (a young wine).

A tough call, but the wine that fits the bill perfectly is a nicely chilled glass of rosé. Lately, I've been drinking a home-spun rosé from Alexander Valley made from the Zinfandel grape. This "pink wine" is dry, not sweet, with bright, cherry and cranberry aromas. It's wonderfully refreshing, with more than enough "stuffing" to keep up with da mixed plate.

Grape Value: Scherrer, Vin Gris, 2000, about $20. Nothing bashful about this rosé. It oozes ripe strawberries, cherries and cranberries. It's wonderfully balanced with a tart edge that keeps it refreshing and keeps you coming back for more.

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Mark Shishido is restaurant manager
for Alan Wong's restaurants.

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