Star-Bulletin Features

Wednesday, April 4, 2001

Knowledge on the vine

For almost two years, four local wine experts have contributed to a monthly feature, "Values on the Vine." With the new column debuting below, we give weekly attention to the topic of food and wine.

Continuing to contribute will be Richard Field of R. Field Wine Co., Lyle Fujioka of Fujioka's Wine Merchants, Chuck Furuya of Fine Wine Imports and Hawaii's only master sommelier, and Jay Kam of Vintage Wine Cellar. Mark Shishido of Alan Wong's restaurants is signing on as a fifth contributor. The focus will be food and wine, but a value recommendation will still be included.


How to Speak Geek

Exploring the world of food and wine

By Chuck Furuya

Rosé is perfect
for warm days

Don't let preconceived notions about the color pink make you miss out on the dry rosés from southern France, perfect for warm afternoons and warm climates.

Serve them well-chilled and serve them often. Foods? These are quintessential food wines, as great with Mediterranean classics such as bouillabaisse as they are with grilled or fried akule. Try one with roasted vegetable and pesto pasta, any tomato-based pasta sauce, or even with local favorites such as beef luau stew or oxtail soup, just to name a few.

These wines have enough character to handle rich, oily preparations and an earthy dimension that works well with vegetable-oriented recipes such as those using tomato, roasted vegetables and especially saffron. Well-made rosés should have a crisp, refreshing edge, ideal to keep the palate fresh and alive between bites.

Want to really impress some guests? Sear diver scallops quickly in a very hot pan, then add 2 ounces of rosé and reduce by three-quarters. Add a little honey, lime juice and butter. Serve over a bed of baby arugula tossed with olive oil (or truffle oil would be decadently wonderful), salt and pepper. Garnish with roasted garlic cloves. Serve with a rosé, well-chilled. Sante!

Grape value: "Good" rosé is really hard to find. This week's recommendation is one of my favorites, the 1999 Syrah Rosé, by Hugues de Beauvignac. It is a dry, deliciously fruit-driven rosé from southern France, right on the Mediterranean. At about $12.50 a bottle, this is a fabulous wine at a great price.

Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and president of Fine Wine Imports. Contributions to "How to Speak Geek" are welcome from those in the industry or those who share an appreciation of wine and food. Write the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or e-mail

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