VALUES ON THE VINE
Premium Pinots for less
PINOT Noir is one of the most highly regarded wine grapes in the world. Traditionally grown in the Burgundy region of France, it is being mastered by some U.S. winemakers, notably in Oregon and on the Northern California coast. Pinot Noir has a reputation as a fickle grape, but it has seduced many a vintner with its potential to produce some of the world's finest wine. Pinot Noir also is exceptionally food-friendly.
Hawaii Public Radio offers up a thorough look at this noble grape at its 15th Annual Wine Classic Auction & Tasting Sunday (see B-1). Breakout seminars include a horizontal tasting of rare 1998 California Pinot Noirs normally unavailable in Hawaii, as well as sessions led by David Hirsch of Hirsch Vineyards and winemaker Chris Whitcraft.
Richard Field
Owner of R. Field Wine Co.
Camelot Vineyards 1997 Pinot Noir, $9.99: While some classic Pinots can be bright and fruity, Camelot produced one that incorporates these characteristics with great balance and in an accessible style. This wine is especially versatile and easily complements a variety of dishes that call for a fuller white wine as well as light- to medium-bodied reds.
1999 La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir: The Sonoma Coast areas of California have demonstrated the potential for great wine grapes and especially for Pinot Noir. This bottling combines the sweetness of oak and concentrated cherry and spice flavors. Amazingly well-textured, this wine is impressive and is one of the best I've tasted recently for under $20.
Lyle Fujioka
Owner of Fujioka's Wine Merchants
1998 Bouchaine Pinot Noir, California, $10.95: A delicate, clean, soft, rosy color invites the eyes to this friendly, true-to-type Pinot Noir. The generous fragrance shows fresh ripe cherries and ticklings of strawberry. The unfolding flavors gently show unexpected depth and smooth, balanced Pinot Noir flavors, with a rich finish. A real winner. Try it with pasta primavera or salmon.
1998 Selby Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, $17.95: The bright color of this firmer-styled Pinot is paired with soft cherry aromas. The cheerfully ripe fruit offers a warm and fuzzy kind of smell. This spirited Pinot shows off its youthful vigor and slightly bigger tannins, with a good acid component, (the backbone of a wine) making it a good candidate for pairing with heartier dishes.
Jay Kam
President of Vintage Wine Cellar
My father always says, "all great palates will end up in Burgundy."
Burgundy's primary red grape is Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir produces wines of great elegance and subtle power. I know many people who have experienced their wine epiphany with a great bottle of Pinot Noir. Unfortunately Pinot Noir is the most temperamental grape to grow. The thin skins make it vulnerable to small weather fluctuations and good Pinot Noir must be grown at low yields. Thus, Pinot Noir is also one of the more expensive varietals you can buy. There are few Pinot Noirs at less than $10 that I would recommend. A lot of Pinot Noir out there is plonck, so it behooves you to do some homework or trust a reputable wine merchant.
For now if you are looking for a good introduction to Pinot Noir, try the 1998 Rex Hill Kings Ridge Pinot Noir ($15.99). This is from Oregon's excellent 1998 vintage. It has nice cherry fruit and a sensual mouthfeel. If you're looking for something more complex and rewarding try the 1995 Moillard Morey St. Denis ler Cru Monts Luisants ($27.95). Now that's a mouthful, but it is from Burgundy and it is from a rated single vineyard, Monts Luisants, which usually indicates a more sophisticated wine. The year 1995 was a great vintage in Burgundy and Moillard is one of the most reasonably priced producers in Burgundy. Most other ler cru level wines will sell for $50 or more.
Chuck Furuya
President of Fine Wine Imports
1998 Edmeades Pinot Noir "Anderson Valley," $25.99: A masculine style of cool climate Pinot Noir that offers deep, earthy, intriguing violet and rose-petal aromas with an exotic musk, sandalwood character. I just love the perfume and the rich, ripe, layered fruit and marvel at how this wine continually opens up with aeration.
1999 Babcock Pinot Noir "Tri-Counties," $23.13: In sharp contrast, here is an elegant, higher- toned, pretty style of Pinot produced from Santa Barbara, Sonoma Mountain and Mendocino fruit. The wine's delicious, silky texture makes this wine ideal with a wide array of foods.
Values on the Vine is published on the last Wednesday of each month. To produce the wine column, the Star-Bulletin asks each expert on its panel to recommend a pair of wines, at least one of which should retail for about $10. Retail estimates on Chuck Furuya's recommendations are provided by Richard Field as Furuya's company does not set retail prices.
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