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Tip top tofu Those who think tofu is tasteless haven't tried chef David Koerner's soy creations.
Volunteers in Pacific
Health's dietary study
delight in the joys of soyBy Helen Altonn
Star-BulletinHarmony Bentosino, 47-year-old massage therapist, didn't need to be convinced by Koerner's soy showcase, a Valentine's Day lunch at the Cancer Research Center of Hawaii last week.
She has been cooking with soy since joining a breast cancer study at the center nine months ago. She's one of 106 women participating in the breast, estrogen and nutritional (BEAN) project to determine whether soy reduces breast cancer risk.
Researchers at meetings held here last year by the International Chemical Congress of Pacific Basin Societies reported that long-term soy consumption appears to reduce the risk of breast cancer as much as 50 percent in some cases.
A dietary study of the Pacific Health Research Institute raised concerns, however, that tofu may have adverse effects on aging and the brain.
"While we don't know if tofu will decrease the risk of breast cancer, we certainly know that it is heart-healthy and can play a role in cholesterol reduction and has a place in a balanced, nutritious diet," said Kristine Cuthrell, Cancer Research Center nutritionist.Half the volunteers -- including Bentosino -- are required to eat two tofu servings (8 ounces) daily. The others eat a normal diet.
"They gave us so many recipes -- I like trying every one," Bentosino said. She also contributes recipes to the group, such as a popular swirled chocolate and vanilla pudding made with soy milk.
Her cat doesn't like soy milk but her husband, Greg, is happy with her new meals, she said. "Before the program, he didn't seem to like my cooking."
The program also has cut down on her grocery bills, she said.
Free soy products are distributed to women in the soy-eating group at monthly meetings and by mail, said Casey Robbins, BEAN coordinator.
The goal is to have 200 participants and recruiting is expected to be done by summer, she said.
Chef Koerner is executive chef and director of nutrition services at Aloha Nursing and Rehab in Windward Oahu. He has donated his culinary knowledge and recipes to various dietary intervention studies at the Cancer Research Center. "He does all of this out of his love for food and goodness of heart," Cuthrell said.
His Valentine's Day fare included: Garden Bounty Salad with a Raspberry Soy Vinaigrette; Tofu Towers with Grilled Vegetables and Tofu Ratatouille; Soy Milk Polenta with Sundried Tomato and fresh island fish with three types of fresh-fruit salsas.
He dished out tangy orange soy milk sorbet, very berry frozen soy yogurt and soy milk cappuccino ice cream for dessert.
"No one would know tofu was in these dishes, except in the salsas," he said.
People are becoming health-conscious and soy products are getting much more popular, Koerner said. For instance, Caesar dressing is available now with soy, he said. "It's great because of longer shelf life.
Tofu is versatile, adds a nice flavor and can be added to any food, he said. "It's a great accompaniment. Chefs like it because of the color it provides."
It's also a "perfect protein" that "could solve a lot of the world's hunger problems" if not for misconceptions about taste, he said.
"Take any basic recipes at home and just dabble," he said. "Add a small amount of tofu and see if the family likes it, without telling them.
"Work with ingredients you like." If a recipe calls for something family members don't like, substitute something they do, he said. "Create your own style but constantly taste as you go along."
If you go to a restaurant and see nothing on the menu with tofu, Koerner advised, "Ask. They can only say no.
"And if you're dieting and go to a restaurant ... ask if half can be wrapped, so you're not fighting with yourself (to eat it all). Cooks don't like a plate to go out that doesn't look full, so you might even get a larger portion."
Koerner said he does a lot of demonstrations at the 141-bed rehab facility "to create excitement toward food."
Many patients are finicky eaters so he tries to jazz up the food, he said. On Valentine's Day, for example, he served fried rice in a heart mold.
"It makes you feel warmer and they're curious about it -- they don't want to say they won't eat it."
Whip first six ingredients together. Add oranges and tofu, gently tossing. Add salt and pepper. Makes 1 cupSweet & Sour Tofu Salsa
2 tablespoons onion
2 tablespoons ketchup
2 tablespoons white vinegar
White pepper and Hawaiian salt, to taste
1 tablespoon soybean oil
2 tablespoons sweet Thai chili sauce
1/2 cup mandarin oranges
1/2 cup firm tofu, cut into 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch cubes
Firmly press empty can onto tofu that is still in original container. Remove cylinder with tofu inside. Lift cylinder onto a cutting board. Cut into 8 round slices and set on waxed paper. Season both sides with salt, pepper and Italian herbs, then dredge each slice in cornmeal.Tofu Towers
1 14-ounce empty soup can with both ends removed
1 block of firm tofu
1 yellow squash
1 zucchini
1 red pepper
1 pound portobello mushrooms
Salt and black pepper
1 tablespoon soybean oil
1/3 cup cornmeal
1 tablespoon Italian herbsCut 1/8-inch thick slices of yellow squash, zucchini, red pepper and mushroom, no bigger than the perimeter of the can. Place all vegetables in a bowl with salt and pepper; toss with soybean oil. On a hot grill, mark off the vegetables and set aside. Lightly oil grill and grill tofu slices, turning carefully.
To construct tower: Place one slice of a grilled tofu at the bottom of the cylinder. Top with 3 slices of yellow squash, 3 slices of red pepper, 3 slices of portobello mushroom and 3 slices of zucchini. Then add 3 more tablespoons of ratatouille, followed by a slice of tofu. Carefully lift off cylinder. Makes 4 towers.
Nutritional information unavailable.
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