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The Weekly Eater
KUMI Iseki is on such a roll I had to stay away from Tokyo Tokyo for three months, lest anyone accuse me of favoritism. It was just in December that I talked up her Ewa Town Center restaurant Moshi Moshi Tei and, well, I didn't want to bore anyone by gushing over her other baby in the Kahala Mandarin Oriental. But enough time has passed and I've had my fill of mediocre restaurants. It was time for a break. Iseki serves excellence
at Tokyo TokyoAs usual, the diminutive restaurateur with a flair for architecture has designed a work of art. Her open-air deck is as warm and inviting as any home patio, though this one would be best suited to a $2 million-dollar home. Inside, there's a robata bar for grilled items, which will soon double as a sushi bar. And hey! Those buff-colored tiles look awfully familiar. In fact, she's had them in storage since opening Wasabi Bistro.
Two tatami rooms seat eight to 10. For those who find sitting cross-legged on the floor painful, one of the rooms comes with horigotatsu, a squared pit in the floor with lots of leg room. In Japan, there would be a foot-warming brazier in the pit and a quilt from table to floor to keep the hot air trapped, something we won't be needing here unless the bad weather remains.
Throughout the restaurant, there are exquisite examples of ukiyo-e prints and glassware. An ofuku-san, or happy doll, greets customers entering from within the hotel.
For this much atmosphere, you will pay. I was happy enough with Moshi Moshi Tei's $8.95 Shrimp and Vegetable Tempura-Chicken Teriyaki combination. Here, a similar combination is $32. Of course, for that $32 you're probably going to get farm-fresh, free-range vs. imprisoned chickens, and at Tokyo Tokyo you're also going to get extras such as grilled vegetables and a salmon salad.
Don't let a lack of money stop you from enjoying life. Economize by splitting entrees. An order of Tempura and Beef Tenderloin ($35.50) turned out to be plenty for two. The beef was as exquisite in texture as filet mignon, but with more flavor. It was accompanied by mustard and ginger sauces that connoisseurs would find unnecessary.
TOKYO TOKYO
Food Atmosphere Service 1/2
Value
Address: Kahala Mandarin Oriental
Other entrees, such as Tonkatsu ($24.50), Rib-Eye Teriyaki ($33.50) and rice bowls ($22.50-$28.50), didn't seem as interesting as the array of hot and cold starters and sushi rolls. The danger of piling on the appetizers is not knowing when to stop. Hmmm, Soft Shell Crab Roll ($13.50) looks good. So does the Fried Oyster ($7.50) and the Spicy Dynamite Roll ($9.50). (All those "Danger!" warnings won't keep people away.)
Clam Butter Yaki ($8.50) didn't live up to my favorite dish at Mr. Ojisan's, but Tokyo Tokyo is generous, offering more than two dozen small Asari clams. Don't worry, you can finish.
Kumi's Special ($5.50) is a compact, savory mound comprising layers of baked halibut, crab meat, avocado and a dollop of mayo. Broiled yellowtail collar ($7) is a crisp treat. Iseki's mom inspired the Miyoko Mama Roll ($13.50), six pieces of California Roll topped with mouth-watering Anago, or fresh-water eel.
Dessert of Pau Kau Kau ($7), a selection of fresh fruit, seemed a natural.
Enjoy Iseki's full plate of offerings now. She heads next to open a restaurant for the Mandarin Group in Malaysia, and from there, who knows?
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com
