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The Weekly Eater
NEPTUNE'S Garden isn't a name that comes up much in critical circles. Although its oceanarium filled with rays, kala and other critters would make this place a natural tourist destination, it isn't even acknowledged in Zagat or Gayot guides. Change comes slowly,
surely to Neptune’sThis invisible status is about to change. I'm guessing from the mauve and gray colors that the last time the room had a makeover was sometime in the '80s. Leather booths and velour drapes suggest an earlier vintage, so change was definitely due. Management at the Pacific Beach Hotel has been quietly making its introductions, first bringing in chef Eric Leterc, who has worked with Philippe Padovani and Alan Wong.
The menu has been updated to introduce Hawaii Regional and Pacific-Asian fare. This is one of the rare occasions in which a room is being redesigned to complement a menu.
NEPTUNE'S GARDEN
Food 1/2
Atmosphere Service Value Address: Pacific Beach Hotel, 2490 Kalakaua Ave.
Director of Food & Beverage Gary Manago describes the old look as "very classical and traditional." The new room will be more casual and inviting, with warmer colors, free-standing tables, and of course the oceanarium, with its languid, fluid beauty, is a keeper.
Believe it or not, the menu will benefit from the changes. I was disappointed by what I felt was bistro, rather than fine dining fare. In the right environment, my expectations may have been different.
I thought it would be safe to try one of the degustation menus, usually a showcase for a chef's best work. The $65 menu started with an amuse bouche of a single herb-crusted calamari ring that did amuse, followed by a Spicy Opah Fish Cake (a la carte $8.50). This will sound strange to those who don't eat seafood, but the fish was fishy. Opah is known to be mild, and while there is a place for fishy fish, a fine dining restaurant is not one of them.
Next up was a smooth, rich Lehua Taro Vichyssoise ($7.25). If you can take a lot of butter and cream, you also won't go wrong with the Kona Lobster Bisque with Mushroom Fricassee ($6.75) on the $75 degustation and regular menus.
Macadamia Nut Chicken Salad ($8.50) was like a dish you'd find in a theme restaurant.
The entree of Beef Short Ribs was comforting bistro fare, as was the Pan-fried Duck Breast served with a trio of plain, purple sweet potato and wasabi mashed potatoes. The wasabi potatoes had a lot of kick to it. The best thing about the sauce were peppercorns bursting on my tongue. Other items on the menu seemed promising, such as Pan-fried Big Island Moi ($29.50) and Roasted Double Lamb Chops ($32), but at these prices, there should be no wrong choices.
I'm eager to see it all come together at February's end.
Downstairs from Neptune's Garden, ostrich is a temporary addition to the Oceanarium's surf-and-turf menu. True to hype, ostrich meat really is a ringer for steak when doused with a little teriyaki sauce and served pipikaula ($6.25) style. Ostrich on the menu
A little more iffy are the steaks ($22, $24.50). To prevent the lean meat from drying, it must be cooked rare, and not everyone finds this appetizing.
Ostrich will be on the menu through the end of the month.
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com
