VALUES ON THE VINE
Toast the year end
with big reds
WE close the year with our annual look at what's hot in big reds. There's a lot of schlock available in this very popular category of wines. Our panelists have endeavored to steer you toward not just a bigger, but a better wine experience.
Values on the Vine is designed to provide a guide to our burgeoning local wine aisles.
Our panelists, three respected local retailers and Hawaii's only master sommelier, offer their picks in a different area of wine each month. We also welcome guest recommendations from readers and industry professionals.
If you have suggestions for column topics or ways to improve Values on the Vine, please send them to skendrick@starbulletin.com.
Have a Happy New Year!
Richard Field
Owner of R. Field Wine Co.
The 1997 vintage was considered the greatest of the decade for Cabernet Sauvignon in America. Two great ones that are on sale for the rest of the year are:
Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1997, $25.99: A fantastic wine, overall. Factor the great price with the super quality from a classic vintage, this is the best buy of luxury wines. The wine is firm and deeply concentrated, with a solid base of blackberry, currant, coffee and plum flavors with the strength of this awesome vintage.
Beaulieu Vineyard Tapestry 1997, $29.99: Big, bold, rich and polished, this is an immense and deeply concentrated Cabernet blend laden with ripe plum, currant, anise, green olives and cedar. Tapestry is the name this winery uses to designate its meritage or Bordeaux-styled wine like Opus One.
Lyle Fujioka
Owner of Fujioka's Wine Merchants
1999 Barossa Valley Estate Syrah, Australia, $7.95: Mint, blackberry and appealing meaty notes up front, then a juicy blackberry palate accented by hints of red plum. This one is on the money, with an uncompromised balance between zesty acidity and soft tannins. A versatile food- friendly wine, and another fantastic Aussie red.
1999 Mas des Avelans Syrah, Rhone, France, $10.95: Australia's Rosemount has probably done more for the promotion of Syrah/Shiraz than any other producer. Rosemount's interpretation, however, has been to tame this noble savage variety into an almost too candylike wine. Mas des Avelans' Syrah is the real deal -- unbridled power, brooding purple-black color, thick and chewy, spicy and wild, black fruits and pepper, earthy yet clean. Bring on the grilled food to accompany any Syrah.
Chuck Furuya
President of Fine Wine Imports
1997 Rioja, Valsacro Crianza, $38.99: An absolutely great wine, truly world-class. Valsacro was highly recommended to me by a fellow master sommelier. I was told -- "It is a must to buy. It has one of the longest finishes I've encountered." Valsacro is much more than I ever expected. Immense and deeply complex with supreme elegance and endless layers, the 1997 has a smooth, velvety texture from beginning to end and the most incredible finish, I, too, have encountered in quite some time.
1998 Luna Vineyards "Canto," $65.99: Over the past couple of years, I have been impressed with the Luna wines. How can you not love their tasty, well-textured, food-friendly Pinot Grigio, or their ripe, provocative Sangiovese, or their profound, layered Merlot? Each is simply fabulous! The piece de resistance, however, is "Canto." Produced from Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet, Canto has magnificent presence and pedigree. The 1998 has depth and resounding complexity, but also exhibits superb elegance, seductive, satiny texture and worldly savoir faire.
Jay Kam
President of Vintage Wine Cellar
When we think of big reds, California Cabernet and red Bordeaux usually are the first to come to mind. While they are usually impressive, their prices are high. Since this article is focussed on value, we recommend looking at two other areas that have big reds.
1999 Montesierra Tinto, Somontano, Spain $9.99: Tempranillo, a grape grown widely in Spain which can produce a big red wine reminiscent of Cabernet Sauvignon, is the dominant grape varietal in this wine. It is from Somontano, a region that has great potential but has not realized it yet, which is one reason this wine is so affordable. Full flavored with cherries and earth quality.
1997 Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre, Veneto, Italy $19.99: A doozy from northern Italy. 1997 is the best vintage to come along in a while. Deep and dark color with dense black fruit and currant flavors, this wine is well-structured. Drinkable now, but will last easily for 10 years. Perfect with game or grilled meats.
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