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The Weekly Eater

By Nadine Kam

Thursday, December 14, 2000


There’s good reason
to eat more wasabi

SCIENCE doesn't have to be boring. Why, the best cuisine combines chemistry with artistry. Now scientists in Chiba, Japan, have learned that wasabi has properties that can help prevent tooth decay.

This was the subject of a talk this morning by Hideki Masuda at Pacifichem 2000, a meeting of the International Chemical Congress of Pacific Basin Societies.

Masuda, director of the Material Research and Development laboratories of Ogawa & Co., which develops food flavorings and cosmetics fragrances, recommends people "brush, floss and eat your wasabi," which contains methylthio isothiocyanate, aryl isothiocyanate and alkenyl isothiocyanate, three bacteria killers. Although studies have yet to be conducted on humans, the compounds worked at killing plaque-forming bacteria in lab studies.

Masuda, who said through an interpreter that he's always liked sushi, said he now tries to eat more wasabi, without guilt.


Moshi Moshi tei

Food STARSTARSTAR1/2
AtmosphereSTARSTARSTAR
ServiceSTARSTARSTAR
ValueSTARSTARSTAR1/2

Bullet Address: Ewa Town Center, 91-1401 Fort Weaver Road
Bullet Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. daily
Bullet Prices: About $20 to $30 for two without drinks (beer and sake)
Bullet Call: 685-2800


So Wasabi Bistro is really onto something, its owner Kumi Iseki having recently expanded to cover bases east and west. The newest additions to Iseki's empire are Moshi Moshi Tei in the Ewa Town Center, and Tokyo Tokyo in the Kahala Mandarin Hotel.

Where to go? With east Oahu dwellers given their pick of restaurants, it was more crucial to get over to the Leeward side, where a scene is starting to simmer in Ewa/Kapolei.

Moshi Moshi Tei is a great addition to that scene. It's not so fussy as to scare off the families it's staff wants to attract. Like Wasabi Bistro, its interior is spare, light and modern, with rafters and "blinds" of bamboo.

The same menu is used for lunch and dinner. Prices are reasonable for local-style Japanese fare humbler than offerings at Wasabi Bistro or the upscale Tokyo Tokyo.

Central to the menu are Shrimp and Vegetable Tempura combinations ranging from $8.95 -- when paired with Chicken Teriyaki, Chicken Karaage (deep-fried) or Chicken Katsu -- to $13.50 when paired with Sashimi. These meals include miso soup, rice, salad and pickled vegetables.

The two pieces of Shrimp Tempura are nice and crisp, though discs of batter layered on are excessive. I tore most of it away. The veggies -- sweet potato, kabocha, zucchini and eggplant -- are cut thick and don't get mushy mushy as they can be elsewhere.

If you're more of a grazer, there are plenty of hot and cold pupu that allow you to build your own meal. On the cold side, get your dose of wasabi with Sashimi of Salmon ($5.95), Tuna ($7.25), Octopus ($6.50) or Swordfish ($5.95).

On the hot menu, the Misoyaki Butterfish ($7.50) is a nice, thick fillet that avoids being buried in sauce. The Potato Croquette ($3.20) is a sweet potato mash accented with onion, corn kernels, peas and diced carrot. Local favorites include Beef Teriyaki ($7.95), Chicken Katsu ($4.95) and Tonkatsu ($5.75).

Finally, there is sushi, limited to such basic nigiri selections as Shrimp ($2.50), Maguro ($2.75), Unagi ($2.95) and Squid ($2.50). Rolls include the California ($5.95) and Spicy Ahi ($8.50).

A boatload of sushi is $32.95. It's 32 pieces meant to serve two. Don't forget the wasabi.



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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:

-- excellent;
-- very good, exceeds expectations;
-- average;
-- below average.

To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com



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