VALUES ON THE VINE
Add some sparkle
to holiday festivities
Nothing quite says holiday like a glass of sparkling wine. Its bubbly personality lends itself to making merry.
But not all sparklers are created equal. They can be bone dry or sinfully sweet, rich or light. And the price range runs across the board. Some hail from nearby California and Oregon, others from as far as Italy, France and other foreign climes.
So what's a party goer, or thrower, to do? Our panelists have some suggestions that are intended to help you create just your ideal celebration.
Happy holidays!
Richard Field
Owner of R. Field Wine Co.
Last year was the year of champagne hype. And while the excitement over champagne had mostly to do with the change from 1999 to the year 2000, this is still the time of year that the greatest number of bottles are purchased, popped and given as gifts.
The best news though, is that because last year was the hype year, this year the prices for great Champagne from France are more reasonable with no drop off in quality. There are three must buys:
Nicolas Feuillate Brut Non Vintage Premier Cru at less than $30 is smooth, velvet-textured with ripe, focused flavors of pear and vanilla that linger on the finish. This is a knock out.
Pommery Brut Royal Non Vintage ($29.99) is a serious Champagne that is at once gutsy and elegant. Almond, apple, flint and a touch of spice are framed in an elegant, rich and supple style that just doesn't quit.
And a Champagne that has become very well known, Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut, has gotten better with each release. The current bottling is zesty and full flavored but still tangy and bright. For $25.99 you can't ask for much more.
Take advantage of the post-hype and grab a few bottles to celebrate not just the holidays, but your great bargains, too.
Lyle Fujioka
Owner of Fujioka's Wine Merchants
Handley Cellars Brut Rose 1997, Anderson Valley, Calif., $24.95: We're pretty big fans of dressed-in-pink stuff in bubbles form. There's probably no better way to launch yourself into a festive mood. Handley's beautiful pink rose sets itself up with a fine mousse and leads you to a pleasurable palate brimming with ripe strawberry/cherry flavors all creamy and succulently smooth. Your first glass will leave you blushing with joy.
Moet & Chandon Dom Perignon "OEnotheque" 1985, France, $159: Moet & Chandon is causing quite a stir with its new "OEnotheque," or recently disgorged, program. Not only are we blessed with the opportunity to obtain the outstanding 1985 once again, but we are now able to taste this Dom at a maturity level carefully nurtured by Moet's cellar master. Profoundly exquisite summarizes the experience -- the price is accordingly profound, as is the limited availability.
Chuck Furuya
President of Fine Wine Imports
Cascina Castlet Moscato d'Asti 1999, $23.60: A fellow master sommelier turned us on to this "boutique" Moscato d'Asti. It is so different from the normal light and fruity styles we run across. I was initially taken aback by its amplified flavor -- lush and concentrated, with loads of fruit. I am not usually romanced by such bigness, but this wine handles its size effortlessly. My palate was won over by its seamless texture and profound pedigree.
Agrapart Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru, non-vintage, $44.35: In many of the wine-growing regions of the world, the concept of "boutique" wines has taken hold. Rather than selling their grapes to larger houses, these small, often family-owned parcels, have instead decided to produce and sell their own wines. As an example, here is a "boutique" Champagne. The Agrapart family own but 10 hectares of Grand Cru vineyards around Avize in the Cotes de Blancs region of Champagne. What's so special about the wine? I always marvel at how small and fine the beads (bubbles) are. It takes hard work, aging, patience and handling to get such fineness. Without the bubbles, the wine itself tastes like Grand Cru white Burgundy, a wine of total finesse and elegance. What a complete package, a world-class base wine with fine bubbles! This, for sure, is what I will be toasting with on New Year's Eve.
Jay Kam
President of Vintage Wine Cellar
It is always handy to have a couple of bottles of champagne in your house during the holidays for impromptu get togethers, whimsical moments and unexpected guests.
1996 Argyle Brut, Oregon, $15.25: One of the best sparklers from Oregon. Don't let the Oregon origin deter you because this is one of the best buys around. It usually sells for near $20. Elegant, complex and layered with flavors. This wine has been winning critical acclaim from many publications.
Comte de Dampierre Brut Cuvee des Ambassadeurs, France, $26.95: I had a customer call me and thank me for suggesting Dampierre to him. He said, "the only reason this is priced so well is because nobody knows about it. The quality is as good as anything out there." We like satisfied customers, so we recommend this wine to you for the same reason we recommend it to everyone: you won't find a higher quality Champagne for a lesser price anywhere. Dampierre is a lighter, more elegant style champagne. Try Dampierre's vintage champagnes and rosé if you want something real special.
Values on the Vine is published on the last Wednesday of each month. "Wildcard" recommendations are accepted from readers. To participate, call Stephanie Kendrick at 525-8667, send a fax to 523-8509 or email skendrick@starbulletin.com.
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