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VALUES ON THE VINE

Take time to
stop and smell
the dessert wines

As the holiday entertaining season fast approaches, our panelists offer suggestions on an underappreciated subject -- dessert wines. The pace of the modern meal, even the modern dinner party, seldom allows for a pause long enough to savor one of these nectars, which have gained a reputation as anachronisms beloved by grandmothers. But the diversity of choices here is great. Explore some of these recommendations and see if you don't find an elegant and unexpected way to cap your next modern feast.

Chambers & Chambers and Fujioka's wine merchants are sponsoring an event designed to get you in a festive mood. Fifty wine makers are Hawaii-bound for Vintners in Paradise, a progressive wine and food tasting at Restaurant Row Nov. 7.

The event begins at 5:30 p.m. with patrons being assigned to one of four groups. Each group will begin at a different participating restaurant, Baci, Ruth's Chris Steak House, Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar or Sunset Grill. The groups will proceed through each eatery and at every stop, wines will be paired with the food prepared for that part of the meal.

The event is an experiment in moving beyond the ballroom-style wine tasting, while offering a step up in education, that is wine and food pairing. "If the turnout is great for this, then we know people are looking for something different," said Lyle Fujioka, owner of Fujioka's Wine Merchants and an event organizer. "It's basically a forerunner of what we want to start doing with benefits."

It's also another chance to try a wide range of dessert wines.

Both tickets, $45, and more information are available at 732-7733.

Richard Field

Owner of R. Field Wine Co.

Eos ($19.99 for 375ml) winery in Paso Robles, Calif., produces a decadently rich dessert wine made from the moscato grape, in half-size bottles just perfect for two to four people.

If you recall your Greek Mythology, Eos, the goddess of the dawn, had a son named Memnon, who fought and died at the hands of Achilles during the Trojan War. It was said that the morning dew was made of the tears of Eos mourning the loss of her beloved son.

The wine received 91 points and ranked ninth among the Top 100 wines by Wine Enthusiast magazine. "Great amber color and a lovely nose of honeysuckle, apricot and nectarine. Full orange and peach/apricot flavors balanced by good acidity make it rich but not cloying." Chill this beautiful sweet wine and serve with dessert or as dessert and the only thing you'll be mourning is that you didn't get more bottles.

Lyle Fujioka

Owner of Fujioka's Wine Merchants

1998 Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest, Chile, $12.95: The difficulties in producing dessert wines don't have to equate to lofty pricing, as evidenced by those seeking the highly marketed Canadian Eiswein. Errazuriz demonstrates that a quality dessert wine can be delivered at a reasonable price. Ripe, tropical fruit fragrances and flavors, especially lilikoi, are heightened with bright citrussy acids. Nicely viscous without being syrupy, the balance this late-harvest gem displays will beckon you for another sip.

D'Arenberg "Nostalgia" rare tawny Port, Australia, $30: The Aussies have a long tradition of producing port-style wines. Nostalgia, a Grenache-based wine, will have you reminiscing with a smile about all the wonderful moments of your life. Warm walnuts, golden raisins, raspberries and strawberries with hints of caramel circulate the airways, then satiate your palate with rich, complex flavors delivered with honey-like smoothness.

Chuck Furuya

President of Fine Wine Imports

Chocolate is one of the hardest foods to pair with wines. It has taken years of searching, but we have come across two that work well.

One is called Obtuse ($32.94) and is from Justin Vineyards and Winery in Paso Robles. Obtuse is produced from Cabernet Sauvignon grown on estate hillsides that has been fortified as one would do a Port. Deliciously opulent, the wine is still balanced and un-cloying. These unique limestone-laden hillsides create the magic of this wine.

The other is called Banyuls ($25.84) and is grown on a steep, rocky, terraced vineyard in southern France, right on the Mediterranean. Where most Banyuls are either too sweet or too coarse, especially on the finish, the LaTour Vieille is one of a kind because of its elegance, suave texture and its smooth, satiny finish. It is much more like a red wine than a fortified wine. Serve it well-chilled, just as they do there.

Jay Kam

President of Vintage Wine Cellar

Typically, sweet wines are more expensive than regular wines. Sauternes, sweet Germans and other late-harvest wines generally start at about $20 and can go into the hundreds of dollars. These two wines are excellent bargains.

1998 Quady Electra, California $6.99 for 375ml: Made from Orange Muscat, a grape that produces an aromatic, sweet, refreshing and crisp wine. At this price you can't go wrong, especially when you consider Quady is known for its range of sweet wines. Perfect alone or along with duck- and pear-topped salad, spicy foods or desserts.

Bonny Doon Framboise, California $9.99 for 375ml: Raspberry wine with grape neutral spirits. Bonny Doon makes a fun wine that is only limited by your imagination. Sip it by itself, make a milk shake, use it in baking, mix it with champagne, drink it with chocolate truffles, use a dash in a raspberry vinaigrette ... The possibilities are endless. If you are a raspberry lover, this is for you.

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