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China Chic VIVIENNE Tam was to arrive in Honolulu Wednesday in advance of a Saturday book signing appearance at Neiman Marcus, but CNN called, and so did Destiny's Child.
Stars and real people
shine in Vivienne Tam's
haute designs
By Nadine KamStar-Bulletin
The former wanted an interview; the latter wanted costumes. What's a designer to do?
Plane reservations were rearranged, and late into Wednesday night the CNN crew was packing up, the three members of Destiny's Child were unzipped from their sequined tops and leather trousers, and Tam had yet one more phone appointment to keep with a Honolulu editor. And for all the stress, she sounded truly grateful.
"I'm so fortunate that people like my clothes. I don't have to call them, they call me."
Hollywood, the media and the music and fashion industries have been calling on Tam ever since she arrived on the New York scene with her self-named label in 1994.Her "Mao," "Peony" and "Kuan Yin" designs have been incorporated into the museum collections of New York's Fashion Institute of Technology, the Andy Warhol Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
The roster of celebrities who wear her designs documents the It Girls of the last decade: Fiona Apple, Heather Graham, Jennifer Aniston, Jennifer Love Hewitt, Lauryn Hill, Sarah Jessica Parker, Jada Pinkett Smith, Bai Ling ... the list goes on and on.
But it's not just stars who shine in Tam's garments. Real people love her work, too, for its mixture of simplicity and elegance, classicism and hipness. Her garments are wearable whether you're under 5 feet or over 6 feet tall, young or old, demure or bold.
"My aim is to strike a balance so the clothes don't overwhelm, but reveal a person," she said. "I want women to feel strong and confident in what they're wearing. My clothes look different on each individual, and I find that inspiring. A mother and daughter can look great in my clothes. I want to dress everybody, not one particular person."What's more, she doesn't care to be a fashion dictator, believing that designers who expect head-to-toe loyalty are "too fussy."
"People should be themselves, wear what they want to wear instead of looking for trends or being a slave to brand names.
"I don't mind if they wear my top with another designer's skirt, or something vintage. I do that all the time."
Among the labels she's likely to wear is Anna Sui, named after the designer who is a close friend of Tam's. "We exchange clothes all the time, like sisters," she said.Tam grew up in Hong Kong, the second of four children. By age 8, she was learning to embroider and crochet. By high school, she was designing clothes for her brothers and sister.
She enrolled at Hong Kong Polytechnic and headed to New York after graduating.
"I felt so much at home when I arrived in the United States. America gave me a lot of freedom. Even though Hong Kong is a very cosmopolitan city, New York is more dynamic, and I wanted to learn all I could about American culture."
A year later, she made headlines with her Mao collection, featuring the irreverent prints of China's late Communist Chairman Mao Zedong. In one image, Mao had a bee sting on his nose. In another, he wore pigtails.
"The message was that China has opened up. Mao didn't have to be such a serious icon."
Tam has been recognized for her East-meets-West sensibility ever since. Three years ago, publisher Judith Regan asked Tam to define "China chic," which became the title of her resulting book. She will sign copies of "China Chic" between 1 and 3 p.m. tomorrow during her appearance at Neiman Marcus, which also will feature informal modeling of Tam's fall runway collection.In the book, Tam shares her knowledge of Chinese style and its crossover appeal.
"Chinese history is rich and vast. The book is not just about fashion, but about architecture, calligraphy, food, gardening.
Some of those elements come into play at Tam's flagship store at 99 Greene St. in New York. Opened in 1998, the boutique combines modern glass and lighting with classic Ming-style chairs and carved wooden screens. Two large stone Fu dogs guard the entrance.
"I love tradition and customs, but I also love innovation," she said. "It's the best of both worlds, the old and the new. It's double happiness."
In style
What: Designer Vivienne Tam will sign copies of her new book, "China Chic." There will also be informal modeling of her fall runway collection.
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