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The Weekly Eater
THERE are tons of pasta restaurants on this island, but only a few ristorantes Italiano. It got to a point where I began avoiding the former category of restaurants altogether after being disappointed too many times. Sabrina’s: Now
that’s ItalianDonato's made it safe to go Italian again, and now there is Sabrina's Restaurant, with Stefano Cianfrini in the kitchen.
Cianfrini, from Rome, is an exuberant charmer with blond hair, a King Tut goatee and baggy shorts worn under his long apron. He makes his dining room appearances around 9:45 p.m. or so when he's liberated from his pots and pans. The rest of the time, his wife, Sabrina Collo, runs the room with precision. She's so low-key, you might not guess she's boss.
The convivial atmosphere makes this place popular with celebratory crowds. The Italian waiters can't carry a tune, but they sing the "Happy Birthday" song with such passion!
Sabrina's Restaurant
Food1/2
Atmosphere
Service
ValueAddress: 3036 Waialae Ave. (next to Sushiman)
The dining room seats 40 guests without room for a reception area so when you walk in, it's almost like walking onto a stage, with diners focused on you. Don't try to show up without reservations because they'll be watching you slink away.Those who have become accustomed to overwrought local-style "Italian" cuisine may have trouble adapting to Sabrina's authentic fare.
You will also have to get accustomed to the prices. Those who expect to get a bowlful of pasta for $9 at Italian imposter restaurants, will pay $15 for about 6 ounces of pasta at Sabrina's, which represents the cost of business when using fine cheeses, balsamic vinegars and extra virgin olive oil.
PORTIONS are Italian size, not American, so this is one place where you can have an appetizer and salad, and still polish off your entree.
Appetizers include Sirloin Carpaccio ($7) and a Portobello ($6) baked with a stuffing of garlic, parsley and breadcrumbs. I prefer the more minimalist dishes of cantaloupe slices layered with prosciutto ($7) and Antipasto Misto ($6.50), a platter of prosciutto, salame, mortadella and greens.
Sabrina's Salad ($5) is described as three salads, but in my mind it's only one salad of mesclun topped with three ingredients: mushrooms, shaved Parmesan and olives.
Pasta dishes, such as rigatoni ($15) -- served al dente in a creamy sauce of crushed walnuts, butter, onions, brandy and crumbled smoked salmon -- are small because they're meant to be a first course.
Some would prefer skipping ahead to heavier second courses. This is where you'll find Osso Bucco ($19.50), Bistecca alla Fiorentina (grilled big steak, $18.50) which isn't very big by American standards, and Spiedini, skewers of meat and sausage ($13) or seafood ($14).
Arista Al Forno ($17), a baked saddle of pork stuffed with ham and a mix of parsley, garlic and white wine, was a bit dry. Better were the Piccatina ($17), veal in a traditional sauce of lemon and white wine; and Fricasse of Lamb ($18) sauteed in white wine, garlic and olive oil, and topped with a salted scramble of eggs, parsley and pepper.
And for those seeking the best Tiramisu ($5.50) in Hawaii, your search ends here.
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com
