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Ocean Watch
By Susan Scott
Monday, September 25, 2000
Oh, how I love living in Hawaii. Last week, I was writing a story on my sailboat in the Ala Wai Boat Harbor when suddenly, my mind drew a complete blank. Rediscover the
thrill of WaikikiI stared at the computer screen for a while, but no more words would appear there. Finally, I did the only thing that works for a case of writer's block: Stop trying to write. I closed the laptop and headed for Waikiki.
I haven't been into the heart of Waikiki for a while because the construction there has been driving me crazy. But I take back any negative things I ever said or thought about those noisy, traffic-jamming renovations. Waikiki now has the most beautiful and interesting beach park in the world.
Waikiki Beach is the two-mile stretch from the Outrigger Canoe Club to the Hilton Hawaiian Village Lagoon. Ancient Hawaiians knew this region as Kona, meaning leeward shore. In old Hawaii, the wide, white beaches and good surfing waves of Oahu's Kona district were a natural draw.
By the late 1800s beach houses were sprouting up, and in 1901, the Moana Hotel was built. Hawaii's soon-to-be famous vacationland was open for business.
Today, this beach would be unrecognizable to 19th century residents. Imported sand, sea walls and alterations of the shoreline to reduce erosion have turned Waikiki Beach into an entirely different place.
This isn't all bad. OK, the bulkheads made the sand loss even worse and some of the hotels hog the beach. But this bustling area is alive with people from all over the world and every walk of life. That's because it's fun to go there, especially with the new path and park meandering through its heart.
There's no place on Earth where modern city meets untamed wilderness with such grace and style. Rippling waterfalls decorate the walkway that winds around benches, chess tables and grassy picnic spots. The Duke Kahanamoku statue is now the centerpiece of Waikiki Beach, as it should be. It was my pleasure to take pictures of smiling Japanese couples standing in front of those big, welcoming arms.
Tourists in swimsuits mingle with green-haired kids who stroll shoulder-to-shoulder with military men. There are lifeguards in towers, police on bicycles and people in wheelchairs. Local folks play chess, surf and socialize under the freshly planted shade trees.
I was particularly impressed with the new police substation, next to the famous (and renovated) surfboard racks. With its flower beds, soft lighting and big windows, this HPD office reminds me of a beach bungalow. It's the first police station I have ever seen that made me want to drop in for a chat.
I liked this fixed-up part of Waikiki so much that I stayed for a couple of hours, strolling, sitting and people-watching. That evening, when my husband asked me what I wanted to do for a Friday night outing, guess what I chose? We had a Waikiki walking date, something millions of people travel thousands of miles and spend lots of money for.
For those of us lucky enough to live in Hawaii, Waikiki is only minutes away and free.
Many Hawaii residents, however, don't go there because parking is hard and the place is crowded. But there's a way to solve both problems at one time. Park on the edge of Waikiki, walk along the charming new pathway and become one of the international throng enjoying this world-class beach park.
It's fun, it's free, and if you happen to need it, it's a sure cure for writer's block. I've been writing up a storm ever since.
Marine science writer Susan Scott's Ocean Watch column
appears Mondays in the Star-Bulletin. Contact her at honu@aloha.net.
