Advertisement - Click to support our sponsors.
The Weekly Eater
Can a restaurant critic and a chef make amends? I'm not saying I was wrong when I reviewed L'Uraku four years ago, but a restaurant shouldn't have to live with the burden of a nasty, stinging review after it has transformed its entire being. Second time’s a
charm for L’UrakuAt the time, I thought chef Hiroshi Fukui was talented and meticulous about his approach to cuisine, but he was bogged down by a menu dictated by corporate honchos obviously trying to cater to a Japan clientele. With continued exposure, I could have grown to like Calamari Meatballs and Shrimp Mousse Tofu, but the ugly American in me balked, wondering why I would care to seek out such oddities on my turf.
L'Uraku
Food
Atmosphere
Service
ValueAddress: Uraku Tower Building, 1541 Kapiolani Boulevard
Since then, Fukui has been liberated to reinvent the menu and is being rewarded with well-deserved accolades.
The latest menu is charming, with a lot of little bites reminiscent of the kaiseki, the most elegant of Japanese meals. You'll never want the parade of treasures to end.
The starters, with their attention to details, showcase Fukui's work at its best. I've seen him offer these at events, winning over even those who inhale food without a moment of contemplation.
Watching their faces light up, I believe they, if just for a split second, have managed to appreciate the silkiness of a single precious Seared Sea Scallop ($4.75) served on a bed of bacon takana ragout with a smooth chile Chardonnay sauce and balsamic reduction; or a delicate filet of Seared Moi ($5.95) served on wild mushrooms with Kahuku corn, Maui onion lomi and shiso butter sauce. These are unforgettable.
FOR a larger selection of starters, try the Bento Box Sampler ($12.75) featuring a Baked Oyster, sesame-oil flavored Ahi Tartare served on cucumber slices, a mini Crab Cake served with roasted bell pepper aioli and a Spring Roll, which is the weakest of the four offerings.
Follow up with salads that include a Hauula Vine-Ripened Tomato ($3.95), sliced and reassembled with alternating red and yellow segments, and a modified Caesar ($6.50) featuring baby romaine topped with crispy calamari, shaved gouda and anchovy aioli.
You won't go wrong with the seafood entrees, ranging from a pan-seared Papio Filet ($18.50) to Lobster Tomalley ($27.75) first marinated with mirin and soy, then quickly deep-fried.
Lamb Chops ($24) marinated in soy, hoisin, honey and ginger, are excellent, but I'd stay away from a Pork Chop and Crunchy Shrimp ($19.75). The pork was overly salty, and while this could have been a one-time anomaly, the cornflake-crusted shrimp was more gimmicky than tasty.
There are still a lot of Japanese influences in the relishes, garnishes and pickled vegetables used by the chef, but rather than detract from the dishes as before, they give them an international edge. What's more, the Japanese are still coming, and so are kama'aina.
So L'Uraku will get a boost in its ratings. Fukui's work has changed and I no longer recognize the bitchy person who wrote that review of four years ago. Everyone deserves a second chance.
See a listing of past restaurants reviewed in the
section online. Click the logo to go!
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com
