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VALUES ON THE VINE

There’s something
fishy in the cellar

Chuck Furuya, master sommelier and gastronomic pioneer, is responsible for this month's wine topic, red wines that pair well with fish, or "fishy reds" for short.

At first blush, it may seem to present a pretty narrow range of possibilities, but our panelists have come up with a diversity of options.

Given the growing popularity and availability of fattier fish, and the bold flavors of today's cuisine, red wine with fish is a natural, said Furuya.

But it's still a tough idea for a lot of people.

More than a decade ago, David Rosengarten and Joshua Wesson wrote a culinary guide called "Red Wine with Fish." "It was kind of like a daring book for its time. Even today, many people still believe white wine with fish," said Furuya.

But the tannins in red wine balance fish like salmon and ahi, he said. "These rich, fattier fish led themselves to red wine pairing," said Furuya. This is true for some of the same reasons red wine is used in marinades, the tannins break down fat and protein and tenderize meat, he said.

If the first item to consider in pairing red wine with fish is the type of fish, the second is preparation. Dishes with lots of vegetables, red wine sauces, mushrooms or starches stand up to reds, said Furuya.

For some specific ideas, see our panelists recommendations below.

Richard Field
Owner of R. Field Wine Co.

I'm all for the notion of selecting a wine you like to go with any dish. But when it comes to matching red wines with fish, chances of a successful match go down dramatically. I use a few keys when selecting any wine with fish. The type of fish, the method of preparation and the sauce determines the wine pairing. If you want to serve red wine with fish, look at salmon, tuna or swordfish because these are rich fish with high fat content. The tannins in red wine can make lighter and drier fish tasteless or even drier in sensation. Grilling fish tends to dry the meat so red wine would be difficult unless it was a fatty type of fish. Pan roasting, which is a two step process that starts off like a simple sauté but finishes up in the oven for even cooking, ties the elements of the sauce in the pan and unifies the dish with the fish better than most other methods. Also, deglazing with red wine gives more dimension to the fish and the wine.

Pinot Noir is the choice with fish, especially if there is mushroom or a smoky component that it can tie with. A particularly rich salmon steak could pair well with Merlot but in any case, lively, fruitier styled and low oaked reds (like Beaujolais) are the way to go. Hawk Crest Merlot is fruity and well balanced ($12.99). Laurel Glen REDS is straight forward with delicious and fruity cherry-plum flavors ($10.49). La Crema Pinot Noir ($19.99) has smokiness and black cherry and richness. Affentaler Pinot Noir from Baden, Germany, offers bright cherry flavors and elegance ($13.99).

Lyle Fujioka
Owner of Fujioka's Wine Merchants

1998 Allegrini Valpolicella Classico (60 percent Corvina Veronese, 35 percent Rondinella, 5 percent Molinara), Veneto, Italy, $10.95: Here's a combo that goes beyond the usual and into more exciting territory. Toss some marinated snapper or tombo-ahi filets on the grill and pop this Valpolicella Classico from Northeast Italy in the refrigerator. It's a dry, nonoaked wine with a cherry-spice perfume, intense fruit flavor, refreshing lively acidity and tannins. Bright, clean and light; this delicious red compliments delicate seafood that's simply prepared and lightly grilled. For best results, serve it just slightly chilled.

1998 Elio Altare Dolcetto d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy ($15.95): Here's a surprising alternative to the classic Pinot Noir and salmon pairing. This food wine from northwest Italy is focused and elegant. The enticing red berry and fruit aromas are followed by mouth-filling cassis and blackberry flavors. Nice balance, rich texture and clean acidity provide a good counterpoint to salmon that's simply grilled or roasted. Serve lightly chilled.

Chuck Furuya
President of Fine Wine Imports

Chinon is an appellation in France's Loire Valley. The region's limestone soils and extremely cool growing conditions encourage a fabulous, light bodied, intriguingly sappy and tangy red wine produced from the Cabernet Franc grape. A red wine for fish, if there ever was one. The best producer, by far, is Charles Joguet ($19.99).

Another suggestion well worth researching is "boutique" Beaujolais. A winemaking renaissance going on in the region is resulting in some incredibly tasty, provocative, "back to basics" red wines. The most readily available example is the Kermit Lynch Beaujolais ($14.25). Produced from very old vines with no sugar, sulfur or chemicals added, the wine is left completely unfiltered. You will be amazed at how this "country" styled wine works with a whole array of otherwise challenging seafood preparations. Just chill it down a little before serving.

Another recommendation is cool climate grown Zinfandel. The one I have in mind is the 1997 Edmeades "Mendocino" ($17.99). In the old days of California, Italian immigrants took pride in home-made wines. These treasures were consumed with their daily family meals. For practical purposes, this wine had to go with both fish and meat. That is very much the style of the Edmeades Zinfandel. Dense, thick and complex enough for red meats yet elegant, suave, well textured enough for rich fish like salmon, ahi, swordfish or even opah and complicated fish recipes like those using red wine sauces or simply marinating and charcoal grilling.

Jay Kam
President of Vintage Wine Cellar

1997 Bouchaine "B" Pinot Noir, $12.99: More so than any other varietal, the old term, "You get what you pay for," applies to buying Pinot Noir. It is hard to find an affordable value in Pinot Noir. Well, we've found one. This wine has good up-front fruitiness. There is some spice and tobacco for complexity. It is this wine's earthy quality, which you usually only associate with much more expensive Pinots, that separates it from other inexpensive Pinots. Perfect with salmon.

1997 Bodegas Breton Lorinon, $14.99: From the famed Rioja region of Spain, where the Tempranillo grape reigns supreme. The thick, powerful aroma is reminiscent of a young port. The flavor is black cherry juice with very ripe acids, which allows this to be enjoyed with certain types of fish. We suggest a keawe grilled halibut steak or seared ahi.

Wildcard
Paul Horner, Manele Bay Hotel

Our wild card recommendation for August comes from Paul Horner, food and beverage director at the Manele Bay Hotel on Lanai. He was born and raised in Hawaii and got his start in the industry while working in Chicago. In 1993, Horner moved to Lanai to manage the Lodge at Ko'ele's dining room. He was promoted to food and beverage director at Manele in 1998. Horner delights in creating magical wine and food pairings. "The beautiful thing is that everyone has different tastes, therefore, the options to create that perfect match are endless," said Horner. The following is his take on "fishy reds."

When we think about red wines with fish, we usually think about the types of wine that can cross food barriers. Another approach is to think of the types of fish that can stand up to a red wine. Ahi, ono and salmon are three examples of fish that stand up well to red wines. Pinot Noir is a wine that crosses food barriers and a favorite is the 1996 Domaine Serene "Evenstad Reserve" ($39.99) from the Willamette Valley in Oregon. It has that balanced acidity that melts those types of fish on your palate.

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Values on the Vine is published on the last Wednesday of each month. To submit a wildcard recommendation, reach Stephanie Kendrick at skendrick@ starbulletin.com or P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu 96802. Retail estimates on Paul Horner and Chuck Furuya's recommendations were provided by Richard Field.

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