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The Weekly Eater
FEW would argue that Ono Hawaiian Food is the best known of Kapahulu's purveyors of laulau and kalua pig. One might go so far as to compare Ono to the pretty girl who outshines her charming, though average-looking friends. Take your pick
of ono HawaiianIt seems there are a lot of lonely hearts out there who are lonely hearts because they can't look beyond the package, and similarly, you may be cheating yourself out of more ono food by failing to check out what's behind the doors at Kapahulu Poi Factory and Kanak Attack. Now if only one of these would open on Sunday ...
A friend was ecstatic about this find. He reported, "There's a new Hawaiian food restaurant in Kapahulu. I don't think anybody knows about it yet." Kapahulu Poi Shop
Of course, this little morsel was totally wrong. The Poi Shop opened way back in '59 and because it's still open, I'd wager many do know it exists. My friend did have a point though. It's hidden away on Winam Avenue. I'd driven through Kapahulu for years never once imagining a world of Hawaiian food beyond Ono.
Millie and Francis Chun started the business, which they passed to their sons Derrick and Colin in 1976. Now, they just come to eat and both mom and pop approve of their sons' cooking and service. "The boys do a good job," Millie said.
Good at making jumbo Pork Laulau the old-fashioned way with the requisite chunk of fat for juiciness (no fish though), mixing potent chili pepper water with garlic and whipping up comforting bowls of Squid Luau, easy on the coconut milk now that we know what that does to arteries.
A la carte prices range from $2.50 for a Pork or Chicken Laulau to $3.50 for Beef Stew. Most people simply choose one of two combinations, a $6.50 version that allows two choices of entrees, and an $8.50 combo that allows a choice of three entrees while adding a choice of dried aku or fresh poke cleanly dressed in a little sesame oil, onions and light sprinkling of Hawaiian salt.
Kalua Pig ($2.75) is a little more watered down than most, but from a health standpoint, this is better for you than the kind that drips oil.
Fresh poi days are Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
At 3110 Winam Ave., open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Mondays to Saturdays. Call 737-8014.
I must have weaklings for friends because so far, everyone I've brought to this place has lifted our plate lunches to go off the counter and complained -- what, me do heavy labor? -- about the weight. Kanak Attack!
The counter guys don't even crack a smile when people say stuff like, "What you got in there, a brick?" They must hear this a million times and want to say, "No, it's the Roast Chicken ($5.50) you ordered, stupid."
Let's just say they aren't kidding when they say you'll "Eat 'Til You Sleep" after one of their plate lunches. This place doesn't restrict itself to Hawaiian food. You'll usually find a Hawaiian plate ($5.95) with Kalua Pig, choice of rice or poi, Sweet Potato, Lomi Salmon, and exceptional Chicken Long Rice. Otherwise, the menu changes but what is constant is that it's all man-sized with plenty of meat and not even an attempt to dress up the plate with shredded cabbage like everybody else in town. The only hint of vegetable you'll find are the slivers of carrot in the mac salad, also dressed with a little bit of tuna.
Selections you may find include Sauteed Garlic Ahi ($5.95), Top Sirloin ($7.95), Char Siu Spareribs ($4.75), and my favorite, the tender Grilled Prime Rib ($7.95). A little salt, a little pepper; it's enough.
At 756 Palani Ave., open 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Tuesdays to Fridays. Call 739-5732.
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com
