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The Weekly Eater

By Nadine Kam

Thursday, July 13, 2000

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A familiar kiss
-- Baci at the Row

MAYBE it's wanderlust. Baci has done a lot of moving over the past 11 years, from the original in Waikiki, to Baci Due in Kaimuki, to a mini version on Cooke Street, to Baci Bistro now serving Kailua. Baci also has returned to town, landing in Restaurant Row.

Such is my regard that I wanted to go right away. After all these years, I feel I could recite Baci's menu by heart. I knew they would have as dinner appetizers a couple of my favorites, the Melanzane ($6.95), a pate of grilled eggplant, garlic, onion and tomatoes; and Gamberetti Marinata alla Griglia ($9.95), the charcoal-grilled shrimp sprinkled with lime, olive oil, feta cheese and mint.

The menu hasn't changed much over the years, and that could be good or bad depending on your perspective.

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BACI at restaurant row

Food 1/2
Atmosphere
Service
Value 1/2

Address: 500 Ala Moana Blvd.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday to Friday, 5:30 to 10 p.m. daily
Prices: Lunch about $18 to $25 for two; dinner about $40 to $70 for two without drinks
Call: 550-8005

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While Baci was serving Italian better than almost everyone in town back then, the competition has caught up, leaving the Baci formula a little tired. Squid-ink pasta? Raspberry vinaigrette? Been there. Done that. Many moons ago.

Nevertheless, diehard fans will find a glossy setting closer to Baci's original Waikiki room. It's a nice setting for a business lunch, and diners have already discovered this. Lunch has been a bigger draw than dinner, no doubt helped by prices set mostly under $10.

A lovely vegetable panini ($7.50) of yellow and green bell peppers, grilled zucchini and eggplant, roasted tomato, provolone and alfalfa sprouts, is served on olive and rosemary focaccia, with a spread of fennel saffron aioli. Other sandwiches are filled with chicken ($7.50), Italian sausage ($8.50) or the day's catch ($8.50).

Salads and pastas fill the menu. If you're really hungry, there are entrees such as Chicken Marsala ($9.50), and a Grilled Pork Chop ($10.95) topped with toasted red peppers, tomatoes, mushrooms and garlic.

Prices are higher in the evening, making it more difficult to sway the Row's film- and club-goers from their destinations.

All your basic pastas are here, the Spaghetti Bolognese ($10.95), Puttanesca ($13.95), Linguine with Clams ($15.95) -- a full dozen, not the skimpy six-count -- and Fusilli Primavera ($13.95). These are passable, but run from the Ravioli of the Day ($14.95). The filling I tried was a loamy combination of veal and mushrooms. The accompanying tomato sauce was trite.

An appetizer of Portabello Arrostiti ($8.95) was an unexpected tower built with polenta, caramelized onion, roasted tomatoes and finally, the mushroom in a portion smaller than I had envisioned.

Those who grow queasy at the idea of eating baby animals will be saddened to know that these -- represented by the Broiled Lamb Chops ($23.50) served in a wine and pomegranate reduction sauce, and the Vitello de Baci ($19.95), the chef's signature veal scallopine topped with sundried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, capers and a white wine sauce -- are among the best dishes, although I could have done with a lot fewer tomatoes in the latter.

For dessert, what else but the Tiramisu? Predictable.

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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:

-- excellent;
-- very good, exceeds expectations;
-- average;
-- below average.

To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com