VALUES ON THE VINE
Summer picnics
demand refreshing wines
Light, fruity and even -- stay with me now -- pink! Summer's heat can reframe even the stodgiest afficionado's taste in wine. This month, our panelists recommend wines for picnic fare; just in time for the Fourth of July.
Regular panelist Richard Field is taking a well-earned break this month to recover from his part in masterminding the Taste of Honolulu wine tent. He will be back in July with new suggestions.
Lyle Fujioka
Owner of Fujioka's Wine Merchants
1999 Argiolas "Costamolino" Vermentino, Sardinia, $8.95: This current release from Argiolas once again confirms our position that there is no compromise to the quality of our Italian white wines even after their long travel time to our isles. Clean and crisp, delicate yet intense, Costamolino offers the palate a smooth, flavorful balance of pears and mineral freshness -- no oak treatment makes for very correct summer sipping. Pair it with a chilled pasta salad for a perfect picnic setting.
1999 Planeta "La Segreta Bianco" Grecanico & Chardonnay, Sicily, $12.95: Repeating the 1999 theme, this exciting blend of Sicily's native white varietals, Grecanico and Chardonnay, provides big, rich, mouth-filling entertainment. Dry and soft with layers of peach, pear, melon, minerals and a touch of wood. Chilled crab or lobster with a squeeze of lemon will be elevated to new heights with this delicious secret (segreta).
Chuck Furuya
President of Fine Wine Imports
The summer is upon us already. I can't remember one as hot, or at least it seems so. For picnics and summer sippin' in general, I think of well-chilled wines, light in body, lower in alcohol levels and with minimal oak character.
1999 Rosé de Syrah, Hughes de Beauvignac, $11.99: A friend frequently and playfully chides me about how frequently I recommend the Bonny Doon Rosé (and I'm sure several readers also wonder). Good rosés are so hard to find. How can something seem so simple yet be so incredibly difficult? Here is one you shouldn't miss. Deliciously dry with gobs of thirst-quenching, food matching, southern French grown fruit! I am amazed how such a wine can be so tasty and interesting and still be so light and refreshing on the palate! And so reasonable, how can you go wrong?
1998 Moscato d'Asti, Walter Bera, $18.99: In Italy, they enjoy this wine with prosciutto and melon amongst other light fare. We recommend sipping this irresistible, profusely fruity, slightly sweet, low-alcohol bubbly with diced fresh fruit (papaya, strawberries and mango immediately come to mind) on the lanai or in the shade of a tree. Make sure it's ice cold! Make sure the glasses are cold, too (I bet there are many who can't believe I am saying that). Beat the heat. More Bera! We have been avid followers of Walter Bera's for a couple of decades now. No fluff whatsoever. Just purity.
Jay Kam
President of Vintage Wine Cellar
1999 Chateau Marouine Rosé, Provence, France, $9.99: Rosé has not caught on in America, but this is what the French drink during warm weather. Its characteristics are light pink color, plenty of red fruit flavor with little tannin and well-balanced softness. It truly enhances the flavor of all dishes, whether meat, seafood, pasta or cheese. Chateau Marouine Rosé also make a great aperitif. In one word: refreshing.
1999 Carcehelo, Jumilla, Spain, $9.99: From hilly vineyards in Jumilla, Spain, that have not been effected by phylloxera. With modern wine-making styles taking hold in this area, lighter, more accessible wines are being made that are best drunk when young and fruity. This is a Rhone-style bland of Mouvedre, Grenache and Syrah. The wine is dark and inky and has pretty, sweet, lush and ripe fruit; perfect for meats from the hibachi.
Wildcard
Roberto Viernes, Neiman Marcus
Roberto Viernes is wine and spirits specialist with Neiman Marcus. He has been at the store since it opened two years ago and got his training at R. Field Wine Co.
Viernes writes: During summer I always look forward to the barbecue party. Everyone brings something to the meal, making it the ultimate smorgasbord. I am always expected to bring the wine. But, what should I bring to match myriad dishes and tastes? I know the grill is going to be in use, so I'm going to spoil my friends and bring a delicious wine called Piemontese from Erich Russell Winery ($28 Neiman Marcus exclusive), which is a Cal-Ital blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon. This smooth red is full of jammy plum and raspberries. It also has the weight and structure to stand up to grilled meats without the alcohol that would make it heavy and bitter in the hot Hawaiian sun.
A white wine that is always a sure bet to bring to a summer cook out is Moscato d'Asti from Piazzo Comm. Armando in Italy ($13). This wine is so pleasing, with aromas of lychee, apricot and flowers, and its low alcohol content (only 7 percent) and light sweetness make it a refreshing delight in Hawaii's balmy climate. But what I really look forward to pairing at parties like these is good wine with good friends.
Wildcard II
Kimberly Case, Tamura's Fine Wine & Liquors
Kimberly Case of Tamura's returns this month with some suggestions on picnic wines.
1999 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Fall Harvest $7.99: This crispy, crunchy wine emphasizes mineral, tropical fruit, pear, apple and honeydew flavors. Its lush nose and long finish makes it a perfect wine to pair with salads, cold chicken and light pupus.
1999 Madfish Chardonnay Western Australia $13.29: With aromas of honeydew and vanilla, this complex food wine is made of layers upon layers of tropical fruit. To top it off, its fabulous, butterscotchy, long finish, lack of oak and medium acidity allow the flavors to truly shine. A true "must" to accompany cold seafood salads, sashimi, and other afternoon snacks.
1998 Milton Rosé of Virginia $12.99: A truly unique wine experience. Imagine tasting a soft, medium-dry, refreshing wine, with layer upon layer of cherry, berry, cranberry fruit flavors, culminating into a long, full-bodied finish. A perfect poolside treat and well-matched with Chinese chicken salad or Cobb salad.
Values on the Vine is published on the last Wednesday of each month. Have you found a special bottle of wine that represents good value? To participate as a wildcard panelist, contact Stephanie Kendrick at 525-8667 or skendrick@starbulletin.com.
Click for online
calendars and events.
