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The Weekly Eater
GOT mint? You'll need it after a visit to Luigi's Place, a new Kailua restaurant serving up pasta that pushes the garlic quotient with all the intensity of Assaggio's, which is further down the street. Mom & Pop do it
right at Luigi’sUnlike the crowded competition, Luigi's offers a cozy, intimate experience. This is an example of a tiny mom-and-pop doing everything right. The carefully chosen menu is simple and therefore manageable for the small staff. Fresh ingredients are used, and when they do use readymade products such as Lobster ($13.95) and Spinach Ravioli ($12.95), they 'fess up instead of trying to pass it off as their own.
For those who order antipasti of Bruschetta ($5.50), the garlic hits you from the start. These rounds of grilled bread are topped with generous amounts of diced tomatoes and garlic, sprinkled with chopped basil.
Several salads are offered, including a Greek Salad ($6.95) with feta, red onions and kalamata olives; Grilled Eggplant, Zucchini and Red Peppers ($6.50); and a mini Middle Eastern platter ($5.95) featuring tabouli, a runny version of hummus, and whole-wheat pita.
LUIGI'S PLACE
Food 1/2
Atmosphere Service Value
Address: 442 Uluniu Place
This turns out to be a great place for vegetarians. There is seafood, but no meat on the menu. Instead of meat, there is tofu served in the form of Meatballs ($10.95) served with pasta, and Tofu "Steak" ($7.95) broiled in a ginger-garlic sauce and served atop mixed greens.
Pastas are lightly tossed with butter-cream sauce or olive oil and garlic. The minimalist treatment may be a shocker for those weaned on heavy red sauces. Even the Puttanesca ($10.95) gets spare treatment with its mix of red and yellow bell peppers, sun-dried tomato, olives, capers and pine nuts. I could barely taste the anchovies.
Speaking of fish, the Catch of the Day (market price) I tried was mahimahi served Piccata style. (The catch can also be grilled or topped with Cajun spices.) I know, I know, locals often dis this fish as a tourist special, but those who have done fish tastings know this fish has a subtle sour note which worked well with the dish's lemony flavor. Mahi is rarely accorded this respectful treatment.
Also perfect were the Tiger Prawns Beurre Blanc ($13.95), served with a small sampling of Wild Mushroom Pasta, which in spite of the name is a bit skimpy on mushrooms, and rosemary accented roast potatoes.
Several gelatos are served for dessert. At this time of year, the Lemon Sorbet ($3) is a refreshing treat.
Wish I could have a glowing review for the newly open Haleiwa Joes Seafood Grill at Haiku Gardens. With such a beautiful location and Chart House out of the picture, I had high hopes for a change. Alas, a visit turned up more of the same tired, overcooked fare. No go for Haleiwa Joes
Now that its summer, you can play it safe and order large salads like the Spinach topped with a Grilled Salmon Filet ($10.75).
I'll keep checking up on them, but I'm not optimistic. Nevertheless, Kaneohe residents will likely continue to fill the restaurant because few special occasion eateries exist in the neighborhood. And with Father's Day around the corner, they may wish to call 247-6671.
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com
