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The Weekly Eater

By Nadine Kam

Thursday, April 27, 2000


A splashing intro
to Tsunami

IT was bound to happen. I go to a restaurant and get recognized because a friend from 20 years ago happens to own the place.

YIKES!

I do get recognized a couple times a year by alert job-hopping waiters, but they know better than to blow my cover. Not so the old friend who was effusive in announcing to all that I was most welcome and could have anything I wanted.

Double YIKES!

So in explanation to anyone in Sushi Tsunami that day, that's what THAT scene was about, and is far from a typical experience.


Sushi Tsunami

Food STARSTARSTAR1/2
AtmosphereSTARSTARSTAR
ServiceSTARSTARSTAR1/2
ValueSTARSTARSTAR1/2

Bullet Address: 1159 Kapiolani Boulevard
Bullet Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Mondays to Saturdays and 5 to 10 p.m. Sundays
Bullet Prices: About $20 per person
Bullet Call: 591-8966


By now you're probably wondering, "How can she be objective reviewing her friend's place?"

To tell you the truth, she owned another restaurant before. I checked it out, but it was not worth writing about. I told her so.

"Oh," she said. "I guess you're just being honest."

Damn. I always make the mistake of thinking people want to hear the truth. I can't help it. Many moons ago, I discovered astrology and found the description of Sagittarians, such as myself, apt.

"Tactless," I believe, is the word Linda Goodman used in her book "Sun Signs." It was quite good of the author to absolve me of any guilt associated with sticking my foot in it so often. Accepting tactlessness as part of my nature, I've made no attempt to change.

MY friend was hampered by a bad location in her last endeavor. This time, she settled into the building next to McKinley Car Wash, which hasn't been kind to previous restaurant tenants. But it's a great, central location with enough parking, and for once, food worth writing about.

Like Catch of the Day, Sushi Tsunami sets its offerings afloat on boats that drift past diners. As is always the problem at these restaurants, no one likes to pick up the pieces that keep going 'round and 'round, so the best seats in the house are in front of the chefs who also create sushi to order.

And check in with the chefs for such specialty handrolls ($3.90 each) as the excellent "Spider," with deep-fried soft-shell crab and "Mauna Kea" -- maguro, hamachi and avocado tucked into rice and nori with radish sprouts and a bit of tobiko. Also one of my favorites is the "Dragon Roll," a California Roll topped with a layer of unagi or freshwater eel.

Items that seem to hold up to long boat journeys include Spicy Tuna flecked with red chili peppers, tako poke, seafood salad (all $1.70) and the salmon ($2.20).

Less worthy of your landing effort is the "Cracker Roll" with a center of Shrimp Tempura. At first, I thought it was inedible because the tempura had grown cold. But after trying one of the hot entrees, I realized that the tempura was too bready to start, and not crispy at all.

Hot entree combos are all priced at $8.50. If you don't mind the fluffy tempura, it's paired with a decent Miso Butterfish. Three pieces of maguro are included in the sashimi combos. You'd get more fish by sticking with the sushi.

The restaurant also serves udon and ramen for $5.50.

For dessert, sample the Ginger Brulee, runny in its interior, but mellower than the usual fish chaser.



See a listing of past restaurants reviewed in the
Do It Electric!

section online. Click the logo to go!




Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:

-- excellent;
-- very good, exceeds expectations;
-- average;
-- below average.

To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com



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