VALUES ON THE VINE
Please your palate with
food-friendly whites
WHILE domestic Chardonnay is far and away the most popular white wine nationwide, it is not necessarily the best choice with food. And while "drink what you like" is fine advice as far as it goes, by straying from the tried and true, you might be surprised at how much better both your cooking and your glass of wine can taste.
One of Chardonnay's disadvantages as a food wine is its alcohol level, which tends to be high. While high-alcohol wines can be rich in flavor and appealing on their own, combine them with a modern diet that tends to be heavy on seafood, vegetables and spicy cuisines and that intensity overwhelms the flavors of both the food and the wine.
Some varietals that combine complex character and food-friendly lightness are French Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc; and German Riesling. Our panelists suggest more below.
Your best bet is to consider these ideas and experiment on your own.
To get started all you need is an inexpensive wine pump and a couple of bottles of white wine that you've never tried before. The next time you want wine with dinner, open three bottles instead of one. (You can put the leftovers back in the fridge.) Make one a big, oaky California Chardonnay and the other two "food-friendly" whites. Taste each alone and the Chardonnay may very well come out on top; then taste them with that spicy shrimp salad. Which wine makes the most refreshing companion to your meal?
Now to our panelists for some suggestions on where to start your search:
Richard Field
Owner of R. Field Wine Co.
A common refrain is white wines don't age. For the most part, I would agree. But the exceptions are well worth the search. The 1991 Zilliken Estate Riesling from Germany ($9.99) is such a find. When Riesling ages, the wine develops unique aromas and flavors, but only when produced by skilled winemakers like Hanno Zilliken. When you want a wine that is seamless with Japanese traditional or new wave cuisine, or with the myriad Pacific Rim dishes, or just casual foods at potlucks, get a few bottles of the off-dry, slightly sweet, appley, fruity Zilliken Estate Riesling.
Lacryma Christi Bianco ($13.99) is the famous wine from the area near Naples, Italy. "The Tears of Christ" legend has it that the archangel Lucifer, as he was cast down, desperately grabbed a piece of Heaven with his fingernails and placed it on Earth as the Gulf of Naples and the areas nearby. Noticing the loss, the Lord wept, and where each of his tears fell the first vines grew. Made from Coda di Volpe and Verdeca grapes, this wine has interesting hints of almond and crisp, light, apple and pear flavors. It goes well with grilled or stir-fried chicken or pan-fried fish.
Lyle Fujioka
Owner of Fujioka's Wine Merchants
Chehalem Pinot Gris "Willamette Valley" 1999, Oregon, $13.95: This is an impressive wine that offers wonderful versatility. As an aperitif, its fresh, slightly citrus crispness perks the palate, while its lush, tropical flavors satiate without a hint of overbearing alcohol weight. An attractive nuance of sweetness adds further dimension and allows perfect pairing with an array of Asian and spicy dishes. Your favorite seafood dishes will be enhanced by this Pinot Gris' perfectly pitched acidity level and stainless steel clean fruit.
Gini Soave Classico 1998, Italy, $11.95: Delicate, caressing aromatics of minerals, green apples and pears gently beckon the senses. The ensuing flavors are at once ripe and intense, yet wonderfully light. A balanced acid level lifts the fruit but does not impart any edge on the palate. Blissful for sipping, or serve this suave Soave with light pastas, seafood, or your favorite Chinese dinner.
Chuck Furuya
President of Fine Wine Imports
A wonderfully food friendly Italian white wine I recently ran across is the '98 Cortese from San Bartolomeo ($19.99*). I always marvel how such a producer can get that kind of intensity of flavor and character, yet the resulting wine is so effortlessly light and elegant. Consider serving with fresh seafood -- steamed crab, sauteed (or quickly stir fried) shrimp, scallops or pan-fried local fishes like akule, papio or even aholehole.
Another white wine grape variety that intrigues me is Pinot Gris. From America, it is just hard to find "good" examples. Look for those with good flavor; an even, complete flow on the palate from beginning to end; and a finish with no trace of bitterness or high alcohol. The one that immediately comes to mind is from Babcock ($15.49*) of Santa Barbara. It is crisp, light to medium in body and extremely food oriented. Terrific.
You've probably never heard of a wine called Cheverny. It is a white, Sauvignon Blanc-based wine from France's Loire Valley. Here is another wine that makes me marvel at the combination of intense flavor and surprising lightness. Because of its herb notes and lemon-lime edge, this is a great wine to serve with salads or dishes that use a lot of vegetables or fresh herbs (like herbed fish) or even rich soups.
Jay Kam
President of Vintage Wine Cellar
Pinot Grigio, also known as Pinot Gris, is a good alternative white wine; an unpretentious, just-suck-it-up wine that goes well with food. We have one from Italy and one from Oregon for you to try and compare.
1998 Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio, Italy, $9.99: The Italians make Pinot Grigio in a light, fruity, refreshing and pleasant style. This wine enhances food like a squeeze of lemon highlights flavors. Fried calamari, grilled sardines or shrimp salad will taste even better with a glass of this wine.
1996 Oak Knoll Pinot Gris Reserve, Oregon, $13.99: Oregon Pinot Gris tends to be a tad fruitier than its Italian counterparts, with lusher and sweeter fruit. Oak Knoll is a good value producer, and this reserve bottling is its best Pinot Gris. (We have the vintner's regular bottle for $10.99). This wine is a natural with slightly spicy Asian foods like Chinese (Szechuan eggplant) and Thai (evil jungle prince chicken).
Wildcard
Nathan Yuen of J n J Food and Beverage
Nathan Yuen, owner of J n J Food and Beverage Store in Aiea, is this month's guest panelist. Yuen started in the restaurant business in 1979, working mostly in the front of the house and getting his wine training under panelist Chuck Furuya. J n J -- named for Yuen's mom, Jeannie, and wife, Julie -- is known for its take-home microwave meals and small but wide selection of wines, tequilas, vodkas and scotches. In his effort to best serve the west-of-town market, Yuen concentrates on variety rather than volume and is always on the lookout for unique wines. His picks are:
Ca' del Solo Malvasia Bianca ($11.89) is a white wine of finesse and elegance. It has a nice aroma that reminds me of lychee and a fresh fruity flavor that finishes off clean and crisp. The perfect aperitif for a party or just to sip on a clear spring day.
Ironstone Vineyards Obsession ($8.99) is made from the Symphony grape developed at the University of California, Davis, in 1948. The wine has a pleasant, floral bouquet, crisp and fruity flavors with refreshing acidity to pair with Thai or Indian cuisine. A cooling wine for all hot and spicy foods.
* Retail prices on Chuck Furuya's selections are provided by Richard Field.
Values on the Vine is published on the last Wednesday of each month. To participate as a guest panelist, send your wine picks to Stephanie Kendrick, Star-Bulletin Features, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, HI 96802; fax 523-8509; or email skendrick@starbulletin.com.
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